A Wildebeest River Crossing in the Serengeti

By Philip Briggs

Arguably the greatest wildlife spectacle in Africa, the migration of two million wildebeest across the Serengeti Plains climaxes with a series of perilous river crossings.

402 Great Migration Safaris

Crossing the River

AVZ-Wildebeest migration at the Mara River

The buildup to a Mara River crossing is tense and unpredictable. Thousands of wildebeest gather at a favored crossing point, teasing themselves (and a few human spectators) for hours, even days. Occasionally they peer over the edge of the riverbank, nervous and indecisive, before they withdraw back into the bush, roaming around aimlessly. The level of agitation within the herd rises and falls, regularly showing itself in an outbreak of hysterical braying that ends as suddenly as it starts.

Finally, after several false starts, some trigger or moment of madness compels a few to leap from the bank. They rush blindly into the water. The rest of the herd follows in an adrenaline-packed surge. They charge shoulder high through the river to erupt thunderously onto the opposite bank. It’s a dangerous event.

The Dangers

Wildebeest crossing the Mara river during the great migration

Misjudged high-water crossings sweep away and drown several thousand wildebeest every year. Oversized crocodiles weave through the crossing herd, ready to snatch down any individual that makes a false move. And, on the opposite bank, lions wait. They eye their prey, ready to slaughter as many emerging wildebeest as they can lay their paws on.

A Sight To Behold

Wildebeest crossing the Mara River during the great migration

For the human spectator, it's a breathtaking and utterly unforgettable experience. It is visually three-dimensional, acoustically magnificent, infused with an infectious atmosphere of chaos and confusion, and tangibly charged with adrenaline. The first time I experienced a crossing, I stood on the riverbank meters away from where the wildebeest emerged. It felt like the game-viewing equivalent of being exposed to IMAX cinema, after a lifetime of watching videos on the small screen.