Visiting Sossusvlei: A Guide to the Sand Dunes of Namibia

By Anthony Ham

The Namib is the oldest desert on earth. It may also be the most beautiful. In the southern part of this desert, in what was once a little-known corner of Namibia, the sand dunes of Sossusvlei come close to perfection. These dunes are nestled between the wild Skeleton Coast and the gravel-faced Naukluft Mountains. For centuries, the wind here has sculpted sharp ridges of sand that form faultless arcs rising from valley floors to heights over 300m/984ft. Each dune is different and being constantly reshaped by the wind. It is a world in motion, of sand dunes that seem to go on forever beyond the far horizon. It is the desert that we dreamed of as children.

92 Sossusvlei Tours

1. Sesriem

Sossusvlei park office in Sesriem, Namibia

Named after nearby Sesriem Canyon, the isolated desert outpost of Sesriem is the gateway to Sossusvlei. Reaching here involves traveling long and lonely roads across an often-empty landscape. Sesriem is about 360km/220mi southwest of Windhoek (the Namibian capital) and 345km/215mi southeast of Swakopmund. The settlement itself is somewhat underwhelming. It revolves around two essential functions: the petrol station and the park office for Namib-Naukluft National Park (where the dunes are located).

The park office is where you pay your park fees and obtain your entry permit. Accommodations in Sesriem are limited, but there are numerous choices scattered for miles around. These are often far from the settlement itself. The best have glorious views of the Sossusvlei dunes that rise like ramparts southwest of Sesriem.

2. Sossusvlei

Sossusvlei, Namibia

When you think of the sand dunes of Namibia, you’re probably thinking of Sossusvlei. Queues form well before dawn at the park entrance. To allow you to make the most of the morning light, your vehicle details will be recorded as you enter, but you do not need to pay until you leave the park later in the day.

The road into the world of dunes follows the path of the dry Tsauchab River, a narrowing expanse of table-flat sand with sand dunes rising from either side. Watch for brown hyenas scurrying away into the hills at first light. At the northeastern end of the valley, Elim Dune requires a 5km/3mi detour. Visit this dune later in the day, as it has the best summit for watching the sunset.

Farther in, side roads branch off the paved road to the base of dunes, one after the other, waiting to be climbed. Dune 45, so named because it is 45km/28mi from the Sesriem entrance, is one of the more popular. Farther west again, the 2WD car park is the starting point for shuttle services that go farther into the dunes to the west. The car park is also the start of the walk to Hidden Vlei. This 4km/2.5mi return hike over the sands is marked by white posts and takes you into an eerily desolate bowl, surrounded by some of the highest of the Sossusvlei dunes. By the time you reach the 4WD car park, back in the main valley or pan, dunes crowd in all around.

3. Deadvlei

Deadvlei, Namibia

If you were drawn here by images of charcoal-black skeleton trees across a sheet of sand, all signs of life dwarfed by golden mountains, Deadvlei is your place. This is the defining image of the sand dunes of Namibia, and one of the signature shots in southern Africa. At midday, the scene is apocalyptic. The white-hot sand in the glare of the desert sun looks like an over-exposed photograph. The silhouetted trees stand like petrified echoes of life in a wasteland of frightening power.

In deep contrast, early in the morning or late in the afternoon, the warmth of the golden sands and the relief of lengthening shadows bring depth and a wholly different dimension to the experience. And it’s in Deadvlei that you can see Big Daddy Dune, the highest of the Sossusvlei dunes at 325m/1,066ft. The sandy track to Deadvlei begins at the 4WD car park and is signposted. It’s a 3km/2mi return walk.

4. Sesriem Canyon

Sesriem Canyon

Off a side road between Sesriem settlement and Sossusvlei, Sesriem Canyon is a complement to the big horizons and moving sands of the dunes elsewhere in the area. Deep, narrow trails cut between the canyon’s vertical cliffs, which are not visible almost until you stand on the rim. Sesriem Canyon has strange rock formations, secluded pools of water and a tight labyrinth of trails.

Sometimes the experience is claustrophobic as the walls seem to close in. At other times it feels intimate, a secret world of shade and shadows nestled in the heart of a desert that stretches for hundreds of miles in most directions. The canyon is formed from sand and gravel that have merged and solidified over millions of years. There is a sense of permanence here that contrasts sharply with the shifting sands of the dunes

Practicalities

When To Go
High season runs from July to November, and this is when accommodation costs are highest and crowds are at their peak. This is also when desert temperatures are at their mildest, although temperatures can be very hot from October. Outside of this, May and June are a good option. Temperatures have begun to cool, and many lodges and tented camps offer lower rates for accommodations. For the rest of the year, expect soaring temperatures, which will severely limit the amount of time you’ll want to spend out among the dunes.
Opening Times
The national park gate at Sesriem opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. The only way to get in before that is to stay at Sesriem Campsite or the upmarket Sossus Dune Lodge, which lie inside the park boundaries. These are the best options if catching the best morning or afternoon light is your priority. That said, the advantage is small because driving inside the park before sunrise and after sunset is not permitted. All you’re avoiding by sleeping inside the park is the queue at the gate, which can involve dozens of vehicles in high season. Arrive around an hour before sunrise for a good spot in the queue. If you’re not staying in the park, make sure you are back at the gate before the sun dips below the horizon.
Planning Your Visit
There are many ways to plan your visit through Sossusvlei. We suggest you drive to your furthermost destination (e.g. the 4WD car park) as fast as the speed limits and obligatory photo stops in the morning light allow. This will improve your chances of having good photographic light at places such as Deadvlei. Coming back, plan to be within a reasonable distance of the gate, or somewhere like Elim Dune, a couple of hours before sunset. This will allow you to enjoy the views nearby, rather than wasting some of the best light driving back from farther down the pan.