Chobe's vibes
Our trip to Botswana started at Kazungulu, where we drove in from Zimbabwe early in the morning. As a lucky forebode, we saw a leopard less than a mile away from the border post, sitting some ten metres from the main road watching us curiously. We were welcomed at the Chobe Safari Lodge and then had a river safari just for the two of us. I remember our guide's name, Tobishu, who was extremely well informed. Tobishu was excited when I expressed a particular interest in birds, about which he happened to know a lot. He also shared with us some of the higher politics concerning the ownership of that part of the Chobe river. Neighbouring country Namibia questioned Botswana's claim to this very fertile piece of land; and the matter was brought to the heart of international law in The Hague: The peace palace, just a short walk from our Dutch home! While enjoying coffee, tea and cakes we were brought close to Yellow-billed Storks, nesting eagles, some huge crocodiles, water monitors and the peculiar Hamerkop bird. Big wildlife included elephants, close to and interacting (or not) with waterbucks and the ever elegant impalas. There were many hippos and Tobishu told us about the genuine threat they pose to people and when one made his way to us and started to yawn from not too great a distance this seemed to genuinely frighten our guide. After an excellent buffet served at the Chobe Safari Lodge (built between hugely rooted trees) we had an equally wonderful land safari. Again we saw many birds: different species of vulture, a Martial Eagle, Marabou Storks and lovely strikingly coloured beeeaters and rollers. The driver/guide (whose name I regretfully forgot) pointed out the almost symbiotic relationship the Chobe Park has with the elephants, who come exceptionally close to the four by fours, having learnt not to fear humans. He went further to explain differences between his park and South Africa's famous Kruger Park (which we had just visited), stating that the Chobe Park has no fences (good, but the downside of this: they are short of rhinos here) and the management's policy of not interfering with the animals. When we saw many creatures eating of a fresh carcass, the guide set out to find the lions responsible for the kill, and after some driving we found them: Three lionesses, stuffed and asleep near some not very covering shurbs. When our car got stuck in the mud not far from these apex predators and a colleague guide had to drive towards us and pull us out, we had some thrill moments too! Despite the fact that it was not summer, the temperature was lovely, just not sunny. So Chobe National Park differs considerably from a park like Kruger, and is definitely worth a visit. The day was over before we knew it, and we drove to the exit amidst a large herd of the beautiful sable antilopes: an animal you won't encounter as far south as Kruger. Botswana (and for that matter: Zimbabwe and Zambia) has that edge, a little more roughness than the better known (parks in) South Africa. The guides are friendly, very able, and their English is excellent. In all: Highly recommendable.