​Overview – Chyulu Hills NP

Anthony Ham
Expert
By Anthony Ham

Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of many Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guide to Kenya.

Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.

Anthony is the author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.

Little-visited Chyulu Hills National Park was made famous as Ernest Hemingway’s ‘Green Hills of Africa’. They’re among the youngest mountain ranges on earth, having been formed by volcanic upheaval only about 500 years ago. The park’s Upper Leviathan Cave is one of the world’s longest caves. Sadly, human encroachment and poaching are major problems here and there isn’t much wildlife around.

Best Time To Go June to October and January to February
High Season December to March and July to October (Not busy)
Size 741km² / 286mi²
Altitude 992-2,041m / 3,255-6,696ft

Pros & Cons

  • Untouristy, off-the-beaten-track destination
  • Caving and trekking trips can be organized
  • Beautiful volcanic scenery
  • Excellent bird watching
  • There is very little wildlife
  • No lodges within the park, only a campsite
  • Roads are in poor condition

Chyulu Hills NP Safari Reviews

  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding
  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding

Wildlife

Wildlife densities are low and animals are nervous. You’re unlikely to see much more than the occasional klipspringer, giraffe, zebra, baboon and Sykes' monkey. To see what Chyulu Hills was once like, head for the western slopes (outside the park and accessible from the Amboseli region) where the Maasai, working with two upmarket lodges, help protect rhino, elephant and lion.

Scenery

From a distance, the Chyulu Hills look green and inviting, their jagged ridges rising from dusty plains. Up close, these mountains are a dark world of black volcanic soil, black rocks, ash cones and barren lava flows. The upper slopes are home to 37 species of orchids. Deep beneath the hills is a catacomb of mostly unexplored caves.

Activities

Unlike most other Kenyan parks and reserves where wildlife viewing is the main activity, in Chyulu Hills you can look forward to caving. The Upper Leviathan Cave is 11.5km/7mi long and worth exploring, but caves (many of them unexplored) fill the hillsides here. Make sure your operator has the requisite experience and equipment before venturing into this remarkable underground world.

Weather & Climate

The weather and climate of Chyulu Hills is comparable to that of Tsavo West National Park. More info:

Best Time To Visit

Chyulu Hills can be visited year-round, but the best time is during the dry months, from June to October and January to February. During the short rains (November) and the long rains (April and May), road conditions can be challenging. A sturdy 4x4 is required throughout the year. With heavy rainfall comes the risk of caves flooding.

Getting There

Chyulu Hills is usually visited as a side trip from Tsavo West, or en route between Amboseli National Park or Nairobi and the coast. It is 232km/144mi from Nairobi and 250km/155mi from Mombasa. Safarilink flies to ol Donyo Lodge (which is just outside Chyulu Hills National Park) from Nairobi-Wilson and Amboseli.

Health & Safety

Please read our malaria and vaccinations page for Kenya and our general ‘Wildlife Viewing Safety Precautions’ for more info:

Want To Visit Chyulu Hills NP?

Chyulu Hills Safaris

Chyulu Hills NP Safari Reviews

  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding
  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding
Most Helpful Expert Review
Expert
Brian Jackman  –  
United Kingdom UK

Brian is an award winning travel writer, author of safari books and regular contributor to magazines such as BBC Wildlife and Travel Africa.

Hemingway’s Kenya
4/5

The volcanic Chyulus are Hemingway’s Green Hills of Africa. With their rolling summits capped by cloud forest they lie in the heart of Maasailand midway between Amboseli and Tsavo, with unrivalled views of Mt Kilimanjaro. You could fit...

Full Review

Latest User Review
Jayesh Saini Nairobi, Kenya  –  
United Arab Emirates AE
Reviewed: May 6, 2021
5/5

I am in love with the place in general

Full Review