Chyulu Hills National Park

Chyulu Hills: Green Hills of Africa

On my first visit to Chyulu Hills, I saw more livestock within the park’s boundaries than I did wildlife – a few scampering Sykes’ monkeys were about it. The scenery was lovely (these volcanic mountains evoke Hemingway’s Green Hills of Africa) and there was not another vehicle in sight (I was the only paying visitor to the park the day I was there). It’s also true that I was in the eastern sector of the park, where human populations crowd close to (and sometimes cross) the park’s boundaries. On my second visit, to the mountains’ western flank which is home to some luxury lodges, I found fine views of Mount Kilimanjaro, and spent time tracking lions, leopards and elephants; there’s also a small, heavily protected rhino population here, not to mention a soulful Maasai presence just outside the park; two of Kenya’s most innovative lodges here works closely with local Maasai communities on conservation and social programs that benefit the local communities.