Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of many Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guide to Kenya.
Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.
Anthony is the author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.
Hell’s Gate National Park is a small park near Lake Naivasha. It has a variety of plains animals but lacks most flagship species: you wouldn’t come here for the wildlife. The appeal lies more in the scenery, with impressive sandstone cliffs and volcanic outcrops such as Fischer’s Tower. These provide the backdrop to some brilliant activities, including rock climbing, hiking and mountain biking.
Hell’s Gate is not a big wildlife safari destination. There are leopards around, but you’re extremely unlikely to spot them. Buffalo, giraffe, zebra, eland, Coke’s hartebeest and Thomson’s gazelle are common. Olive baboons are often seen perched on the cliffs, while a good spotter might pick up a pair of klipspringers. Less common is Chanler’s mountain reedbuck, which can occasionally be found grazing on the grassy slopes.
Hell’s Gate’s main attraction is its dramatic scenery. The park’s name refers to the steep-sided valley running through the park, and its red-ochre cliffs look like they’re on fire when struck by the rising and setting sun. Dormant volcanoes dominate the landscape, with several ancient lava plugs rising from the valley floor. The views of Mt Longonot from the Buffalo Circuit, in the south of the park, are superb. Geothermal power plants do spoil the view in places.
Activities
For once, it’s not about the wildlife. Hell’s Gate is one of few Kenyan parks where you can get down from your vehicle and explore. The best activities are hiking (including scrambling through the rocks and river of Lower Gorge, if it is open), cycling, mountain biking and rock climbing. Guides and equipment for climbing can be found at Fischer’s Tower. You can also relax in the Olkaria geothermal hot spa.
Weather & Climate
The climate at Hell’s Gate is similar to other places near the equator in that temperatures are fairly consistent year-round. What makes it unusual is its altitude, which is high enough to lend a distinct coolness to the air, particularly at night. The Dry season (June to October) sees plenty of blue-sky days, while the Wet season (November to May) trades the sunshine for afternoon showers.
Except for during the Christmas season, Hell’s Gate gets relatively few visitors, so you don’t have to factor that into the timing of your visit. The Dry season (June to October) is the best time to go wildlife watching, as the park’s animals are easier to observe in the thinned-out bush. The wetter months, on the other hand, reward you with nesting birds of prey, and the vegetation is in full bloom.
Ariadne is a renowned African wildlife photographer whose work is featured in many well-known guidebooks and magazines.
Cycling between animals – an experience not to be missed
3/5
This scenic little park with its impressive cliffs makes for a nice daytrip from Naivasha. Although there are plenty of herbivores around, it doesn’t really compete with some of the more popular parks in Kenya. Aside from some buffalo,...