A day-trip into a mini-bite of real Africa
Hell's Gate National Park is situated approximately 75k north of Nairobi, just south of Lake Naivasha in the Great Rift Valley. It's unusual in that the rates are lower than the major parks, and you're permitted to walk or cycle in it as there are no elephants, rhino's or lions, as long as you keep to the main routes. Don't let that fool you into thinking there's no danger. There are plenty of buffalo, there are leopards, and cheetah have been seen on occassions. The main attraction is its' scenic beauty; thousands of years ago the lake water burst through the cliffs in the vicinity of the main gates, (hence it's name), leaving huge towering cliffs in it's wake and a number of towering "plugs" from long-dead volcanic activity rising up from the grassy plains. Even today there are areas of minor volcanic action within the park, where steam can be seen rising from underground vents and at an area known as the "devil's kitchen" the ground is hot to the touch and a strong smell of sulphur pervades the air. In addition to buffalo and the two species of Big Cat mentioned above, there are numerous species of plains game to be found, including Zebra, Kongoni, (Hartebeest), Eland, Clipspringer, Masai Giraffe, Thomson's Gazelle, Grant's Gazelle, and various other species of animal such as Olive Baboon, Vervet Monkey, Silver-backed Jackal, Warthog, and, if you're really lucky, Bat-eared Fox. Vultures nest on the cliffs, and at the base of the "plugs" live colonies of Rock Hyrax, a little brown animal resembling a guinea-pig, although substantially larger. In the centre of the park is a scenic gorge, - you can generally walk down this, (a good level of fitness is required), or view the gorge from above. The gorge was used in the filming of "Sheena, Queen of The jungle", and other locations within the park have on various occassions been used as a film-set, such as "Born Free", the story of Elsa the lioness. Hell's Gate National Park is highly recommended for a good day out whether you're in a vehicle or whether you've walked or cycled in from Lake Naivasha, where most of the campsites and lodges are located. Although my last visit was a while ago, I've been returning regularly since 1989. I stay at Fisherman's Camp, about three miles from the main entrance along the South Lake Road. This is primarily a campsite for back-packers, but the owner rents out a cottage which is ideal for a family, and there are bandas available too. When I visit with my wife or family we always rent the cottage, which is 600' above the lake near the owner's own house, - beyond this is the "top camp" which is quiet and secluded, or you can choose to stay on the bottom camp by the lakeshore. There's a restaurant there in which meals are served throughout the day, good simple fare such as buger & chips, etc., at a very reasonable price, indeed the food's so good that we take all our meals there throughout our stay although we tend to self-cater for breakfast. Within a short drive of the camp is Hell's Gate of course, and in the opposite direction there's Elsamere, (the former home of George & Joy Adamson), now open to the public for afternoon tea, and Crater Lake, a small private game conservancy with scenic views into the remains of a dormant volcano, open daily. Further afield there's The Aberdares and Lake Nakuru National Park, both of which can be visited in a day. For it's central position in relation to the other major lakes & parks, (Lake Bogoria, Lake Baringo, Samburu, and to the south, the Masai Mara, I always base myself at Naivasha for the major part of each and every trip. There are other camp-sites and lodges around Lake Naivasha but the other camp-sites don't have the stability and infra-structure of Fisherman's Camp and the lodges are of course, very much more expensive.