Reviews of Kruger (From 18 Acclaimed Safari Experts)

Expert

Mark Eveleigh –

UK

Visited: January

Mark is a travel writer who grew up in Africa and has written over 700 titles for Condé Nast Traveller, Travel Africa, BBC Wildlife and others.

Head for the ‘Wilder’ Side of the South African Giant

Overall rating

5/5

Wildlife:

Bush Vibe:

Scenery:

Birding:

I’d often heard it said that this huge park (half the size of Switzerland!) is a tame option. Sure, there are huge camps with every amenity you can imagine (Skukuza Rest Camp even has a nail bar!) and there are tarmac roads that run like a thread – beaded with fuel stations – the length of the park.

So much of the park is accessible that it’s actually quite easy to get off the beaten track to explore wilder areas. The northern section sees relatively few visitors and has a wonderful network of dirt tracks where, especially off-season, you could have entire plains and valleys to yourself. The mopane veld, fever trees, kopjies studded with baobabs and the forested banks of the Limpopo evoke the wild immensity of Africa. During a recent trip we pitched our tents to a soundtrack of roaring lions at the lovely Tsendze Rustic Camp and Punda Maria Rest Camp and explored the entire park in a fully equipped ‘Tread Lite’ Suzuki Jimny (more affordable and more ecofriendly than heavier 4x4s).

There are notice boards at all the camps showing the day’s sightings (as well as yesterday’s). These boards alert you to the (possible) whereabouts of lions, wild dogs, leopard etc., but they also clue you in on what will surely be the busiest game-driving routes. Even around more densely populated camps there are quiet routes if you want to set on and explore. On my most recent assignment in the park I fell in love with the Satara Rest Camp area. Sure, I counted nine cars at a lion sighting near the main road but I also spent an entire afternoon and evening driving dirt tracks along the N’Wanetsi River Road and only saw two other vehicles. Added to that, the Mozambique border country is one of the most dramatic parts of the park. Head to N’Wanetsi Picnic Spot for truly hypnotic bird’s-eye views across the river, plains and kopjies.

Don’t underestimate the tarmac. Bear in mind that, rather than detracting from the wilderness vibe, Kruger’s well-maintained road network actually adds to the wildlife sightings. The grazing animals are drawn to the rich grass that’s nourished by the runoff from the tarmac. The predators are lured by the comforting warmth of the blacktop, by the open vantage points … and, of course, by the congregating prey.

Most visitors stay in the southern third of the park and the relatively high visitor numbers make for face-to-face sightings of some of the most nonchalant predators in Africa. To make the most of this area, consider staying at one of the concession camps/lodges (the spectacular Kruger Shalati, for example) since their game-driving vehicles stay out either side of gate opening/closing times, offering predator sightings in solitude that few would ever expect from Kruger. Despite the possibility of good sightings here, it was the remoter northern sector of the park that really enchanted me.

Don’t underestimate Kruger. It’s far from the tame option and once you’ve been bitten by the Kruger bug you’ll understand why so many lifelong safari aficionados consider it Africa’s greatest park.

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Expert

Anthony Ham –

AU

Visited: November-December

Anthony is a photographer and writer for travel magazines and Lonely Planet, including the guides to Kenya and Botswana & Namibia.

6 people found this review helpful.

Kruger: South Africa’s Most Prolific Park

Overall rating

5/5

Wildlife:

Bush Vibe:

Scenery:

Birding:

Kruger belongs in the elite of African wildlife parks and experiences. At once a byword for abundance and hugely accessible, Kruger is a brilliant place for first-time safari-goers. The infrastructure of paved roads is classic South Africa, and there are numerous guided activities, and excellent accommodation to suit a range of budgets. Ample opportunities also abound to follow quiet, unpaved roads through cheetah-rich plains or riverine woodlands. On one such drive, amid the clamour of high season, I spent a blissful half hour alone with a young leopard, then watched hyenas emerge from their den beneath the earth. Perhaps needless to say, the wildlife here is peerless – Big Five, big cats…everything here seems writ on an epic scale. The park’s north is the highlight for birders with plenty of northern specials you just don’t find elsewhere in the country. Other highlights, if any were needed, include soulful baobabs, serpentine river systems and the chance to spot everything from honey badgers to Sharpe’s grysbok.

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Expert

Lizzie Williams –

ZA

Visited: Multiple times

Lizzie is a reputed guidebook writer and author of the Footprint guides to South Africa, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Zimbabwe.

15 people found this review helpful.

South Africa’s flagship park with excellent facilities and unrivalled game-viewing

Overall rating

5/5

Wildlife:

Bush Vibe:

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South Africa’s largest park most certainly fulfils most visitors’ expectations of seeing magnificent herds of game roaming across acacia-studded savannah. After countless visits at different times of the year, I have found it can get a little crowded in peak holiday times, and sharing a view of a lion pride with several other vehicles is not ideal. But then it’s always been easy enough to explore the quieter roads away from the major tourist routes too. There’s so much game in Kruger, animal sightings are virtually guaranteed, and on my last visit I was lucky enough to spot all of the Big Five in one morning along the Sabie River. Some camps such as Skukuza and Satara are like small towns, and along with tarred main roads, this takes away the wilderness vibe somewhat – but other camps are beautifully remote with just a few peaceful rustic cottages hidden in the bush. In short, the greatest appeal of Kruger is its varied characteristics and choices, and it’s equally suitable for a day visit as it is for a multi-day safari. First-time visitors will get through their tick lists with ease in the southern part of the park, while seasoned safari-goers will enjoy seeing animals and birds in a wilder environment in the remote north.

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Expert

Mike Unwin –

UK

Visited: Multiple times

Mike is an award-winning wildlife writer, former editor of Travel Zambia magazine and author of the Bradt Guide to Southern African Wildlife.

34 people found this review helpful.

Africa’s Best DIY Safari

Overall rating

5/5

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Bush Vibe:

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South Africa’s premier wildlife reserve divides opinion. Some who’ve visited supposedly ‘wilder’ parks argue that the Kruger’s developed infrastructure, complete with paved roads and large public camps, undermines the wilderness experience. Others argue that this infrastructure is a blessing; that it allows the independent self-drive traveller to enjoy a budget DIY safari experience on their own terms. As a long-time visitor, I fall into the latter camp. Yes, the Kruger’s extensive facilities and volume of visitors can feel intrusive, especially during peak season. But the park is so huge – at over 20,000km², it’s roughly the size of Israel – it has space for allcomers. Those seeking to avoid the masses can find wilderness and seclusion along the remote gravel back roads and in tiny bush camps. But bear in mind that meeting other visitors can be fun: sharing sightings news on the road or back in camp is all part of the Kruger experience.

Either way, the Kruger’s wildlife is outstanding. A rich tapestry of habitats – from granite hills to open savannah, dense mopane bush and lush riverine forest – supports several distinct wildlife communities. Elephant, buffalo, giraffe and zebra are everywhere, while predators include abundant lion and spotted hyena, a dense leopard population and small but healthy numbers of both cheetah and wild dog. Other highlights include both rhino species (black are very rare), plentiful hippo and an impressive range of antelope. The birdlife is equally impressive, with the camps often as rewarding as anywhere. Over numerous visits, I’ve chalked up over 50 mammal species, over 300 birds and numerous fascinating reptiles and invertebrates – all from my own humble vehicle.

As everywhere, what you are likely to see depends upon where and when you go. The southwest is best for rhinos, for example, while the central plains hold the greatest game concentrations – and thus the most lions – and the far north has some special birding. In general, the further north you head, the wilder it gets but the more challenging the game viewing. The late dry season (August to October) sees herds gather at water sources, whereas the rains (November to March) see large mammals disperse but are excellent for birdlife, including a major influx of Afro-Palearctic migrants. In truth, there is no bad time to visit. The park’s seven perennial rivers, plus its numerous permanent water sources, draw wildlife year-round, while its all-weather roads keep even the remotest corners accessible at all seasons.

On my most recent visit, I found new guided visitor activities on offer, with the likes of mountain biking and 4x4 trails added to the long-standing night drives and day walks. Recent years have also seen more private lodges established within the park, offering a more upmarket and exclusive guided safari experience. For a serious immersion in the wild, however, Africa still has little to beat the Kruger’s three-day guided wilderness trails. Conducted by national parks guides in designated wilderness zones, these have brought me memorable on-foot encounters with all the Big Five and a real insight into the secrets of the African bush. They’re popular – like everything else in the Kruger – so make sure to book early.

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Expert

Alan Murphy –

AU

Visited: Multiple times

Alan is a travel writer and author of over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guides to Southern Africa and Zambia & Malawi.

41 people found this review helpful.

Killing time in Kruger

Overall rating

5/5

Wildlife:

Bush Vibe:

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Birding:

The mothership of South Africa’s parks, Kruger is more organised and has more variety of accommodation than any other park. It also has a HUGE number of animals with the Big Five and every other kind of five you can think of rustling around in the bush. Kruger also has a sublime beauty that changes in different sectors – in general the north is the wildest section.

Yes, it could be called Africa for beginners, however it also has wilder offerings, such as bush walks in some beautifully scenic and remote areas. When I entered the park for the first time, I was greeted by the sight of two dwarf mongooses mating by the side of the road – they didn’t even look up. Next, I saw a huge herd of impala, and couldn’t believe my luck, what a sighting! Two days later when I was leaving I whizzed past a herd double that size without a glance...so many animals glimpsed elsewhere are so common here.

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