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Write a User ReviewKilling Time in Kruger
The mothership of South Africa’s parks, Kruger is more organised and has more variety of accommodation than any other park. It also has a HUGE number of animals with the Big Five and every other kind of five you can think of rustling around in the bush. Kruger also has a sublime beauty that changes in different sectors – in general the north is the wildest section.
Yes, it could be called Africa for beginners, but it also has wilder offerings, such as bush walks in some beautifully scenic and remote areas. When I entered the park for the first time, I was greeted by the sight of two dwarf mongooses mating by the side of the road – they didn’t even look up. Next, I saw a huge herd of impala, and couldn’t believe my luck, what a sighting! Two days later when I was leaving I whizzed past a herd double that size without a glance ... so many animals only glimpsed elsewhere are so common here.
Africa’s Best DIY Safari
I confess, I fall into the latter camp. Yes, the Kruger’s extensive facilities and visitor numbers can at times feel intrusive. But the park is so huge – at almost 20,000km2, roughly the size of Wales – it has space for allcomers. Wilderness and seclusion are easily found along the gravel back roads and in smaller bush camps. What’s more, meeting other visitors and sharing sightings can be a fun and productive part of the Kruger experience.
Whatever your preferences, the Kruger’s wildlife remains
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outstanding. Most large mammals occur in impressive numbers: the latest (2024) census recorded over 30,000 elephant, 50,000 buffalo, 45,000 zebra, 12,000 giraffe and 5,000 hippo, while among a rich variety of antelope are an astonishing 150,000-plus impala. Predators drawn to this herbivore smorgasbord include one of Africa’s three largest lion populations, plus healthy numbers of both leopard and spotted hyena, and smaller numbers of cheetah and wild dog.A few species are less common than you might expect. White rhino have suffered heavily from poaching in recent years – although the Kruger population remains Africa’s highest, by a distance – and black rhino, though present, are seldom seen. Scientists also suspect that the low numbers of some antelope, notably sable and roan, reflects an over-provision of artificial water sources, which favour bulk grazers such as zebra and buffalo and have thus skewed the ecological balance. Park management is working to address this.
In addition to all that celebrated big game, there are 500-plus species of bird, 117 species of reptile and amphibian, and more tree species than in the whole of Europe. In short, visit the Kruger and you won’t be disappointed. Over my many visits, I’ve chalked up over 50 species of mammal, some 275 birds and around 35 reptiles – all of them unguided, from my own humble vehicle.
The secret to the Kruger’s prolific biodiversity is its impressive suite of habitats, which range from granite hills to open savannah, dense mopane bush and lush riverine forest, each supporting its own distinct wildlife communities. What you are likely to see depends upon where and when you go. The southwest is best for rhinos, for example, while the central plains hold the greatest game concentrations – and thus the most lions – and the far north has some very special birding.
In general, the further north you head in the Kruger, the wilder it gets – but the more challenging the game viewing. The late Dry season (August to October) sees herds gather at water sources, whereas the rains (November to March) see large mammals disperse but are best for birdlife, including a major influx of Afro-Palearctic migrants. In truth, there is no bad time to visit. The park’s seven major rivers, plus its numerous permanent water sources, draw wildlife year-round, while its all-weather roads keep even the remotest corners accessible at all seasons. That said, recent years have seen major January floods in some areas of the park – with unprecedented rainfall across South Africa’s interior plateau causing rivers to burst and temporary closures in some camps.
The visitor experience is enhanced by some excellent facilities and amenities. Picnic sites and viewpoints are sited in scenic, wildlife-rich areas, while a network of bird hides is a boon for photographers. Recent years have seen national parks developing some new guided visitor activities, with the likes of mountain biking and 4x4 trails alongside the long-established night drives and day walks. There have also been more private lodges established in concessions within the park’s boundaries, offering the kind of exclusive guided safari experience you’ll find in the private reserves of Greater Kruger, just to the west.
Finally, for a serious immersion in the wild, Africa still has little to beat the Kruger’s three-day guided wilderness trails. Conducted by national park guides in designated wilderness zones, these have brought me memorable on-foot encounters with all the Big Five and a real insight into the secrets of the African bush. They’re popular – like everything else in the Kruger – so book early.
South Africa’s Number One Park, with Good Reason
If you’re a safari newbie with time to visit just one South African national park, make it Kruger. The main reason I like this blockbuster park is that it has a superbly democratic feel. It’s straightforward to get to, there’s a great deal to see (including the Big Five) and, crucially, there are plenty of different ways to explore, not all of which involve shelling out vast sums on extravagant accommodation or luxury services that may not be to your taste. If you’re independent-minded, you can just drive yourself around and sleep in a simple self-catering restcamp.
There is a downside, though – it’s tremendously popular. Roughly 360km (224mi) long from north to south, Kruger is vast, but parts of the park can feel decidedly crowded during the South African holidays. If you hate the idea of being stuck in a traffic jam on a tarmac road – albeit a tarmac road through the bush – then you’re best advised to visit off-season, or head for one of the remoter sections of the park.
Taking It Slowly in Kruger
In the South African summer, a Kruger safari can be frustrating. As there is plenty of water around, animals tend to be spread out and wildlife viewing can be very slow. It is, however, a fantastic time for birding with lots of migrants adding to the great number of resident birds. Kruger never disappoints in winter. My favorite time for a safari here is in September, the end of winter, when the bush is very dry, but mornings and evenings are less chilly.
Kruger is nearly 20,000km2. If that’s difficult to get your head around, think of it as the size of a small country. It is a sustainable ecosystem that requires very little game management. Despite the tar roads and fenced rest camps, this
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is as true a wilderness as you’ll find in Africa. I’ve done many quick-fix trips to Kruger, but I really love going on a long 10-day journey starting in the relatively busy south of the park and ending in the remote north. Convenient rest camps are dotted around this vast wilderness. Some of the larger ones resemble small villages, while others are intimate with basic facilities.The most accessible south of the park has some of the best wildlife-viewing circuits, but is also the most crowded. You’ve got a reasonable chance of seeing all of the Big Five here in a couple of days. Sightings can get congested though, especially during South African school holidays. I love the more remote central part of the park with its open plains and the scenic Olifants River. This is the best area to see cheetah. Very few tourists head up to northern Kruger. Wildlife densities are much lower here, but when you do find something, you might well have the sighting to yourself. The north offers the best birding and if you know where to look, you might be able to spot Pel’s fishing-owl.
Aside from the well-equipped rest camps, there are several private concessions in the park. These are occupied by exclusive luxury bush camps that offer a similar all-inclusive experience to private reserves such as Sabi Sands.
South Africa’s Flagship Park with Excellent Facilities and Unrivalled Game-viewing
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for a day visit as it is for a multi-day safari. First-time visitors will get through their tick lists with ease in the southern part of the park, while seasoned safari-goers will enjoy seeing animals and birds in a wilder environment in the remote north.World-famous Wildlife Kingdom
Kruger is truly the king of wildlife parks. Around 150 mammal species, including 1,500 lions and the rest of the Big Five, inhabit this 360km-long chunk of bush. It’s also extremely convenient, with its tarred roads and camps both inside and outside the park gates, but it can get crowded. The southern section, which is both frequented by predators and closest to Johannesburg, is particularly busy. The quieter north has dramatic, baobab-studded landscapes, but you often need to be patient to spot animals there.
Throughout Kruger, escape the crowds by visiting at a quiet time (such as late January to March) or by hitting the bush on foot, accompanied by armed rangers. I went on a half-day walk, which was a great way to experience nature and learn tracking techniques. When we encountered a herd of elephants in a forest glade, watching the huge beasts grazing was an electrifying experience.
A First-timer’s Big Five Delight
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during the winter months when the game viewing is the best. And if you want a deep-bush experience, then I’d suggest you head to the northern section of the park, right up to the border with Zimbabwe, which is less touristed and less developed than the southern section of the park.South Africa’s Most Iconic National Park
The northern half of Kruger has a more limited tourist infrastructure, and it is relatively quiet, both in terms of tourist traffic and general wildlife viewing. It is my favorite part of the park in several respects, and highly recommended to those with plenty of time and a yen to escape the
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crowds. The birding is sensational, with a good chance of rarities such as Pel’s fishing owl, racket-tailed roller and black-headed wattle-eye in the vicinity of the Luvuvhu River. However, it tends to be more miss than hit when it comes to the Big Five.The central region – around Satara, Olifants and Letaba rest camps – probably offers the best compromise between good wildlife viewing and a relatively untrammeled feel. The area around Satara is particularly good for lion and cheetah, while elephant and buffalo are very common around Olifants.
A big asset of Kruger for budget-conscious travelers is the affordability of huts and campsites. Also, the well-maintained network of roads that can be driven in a cheap rental car. The wet summer months offer significantly poorer animal viewing than in the Dry season (May to September). But the birdlife is utterly magnificent in summer, with loads of colorful migrant bee-eaters, rollers and raptors supplementing resident species.
Deservedly Popular
Some are critical of Kruger’s popularity and network of tarred roads that facilitate self-drive safaris. But the park is so vast that in all but the busiest of times (South African school holidays, specifically), you can still drive for a while and only see a smattering of cars if you choose your route carefully. Southern and central Kruger are busiest, but even here, if you tackle a dirt road, you can escape the throngs. Glimpses of all the Big Five are common, though you generally have to share them with other safari-goers, with queues of cars often forming for a lion or rhino. The park offers a range of landscapes as varied as its wildlife and accommodation options demonstrating similar variety. High on my to-do list is one of the park’s multi-day guided walking trails – an unrivalled way to experience the bush and a way to assure some alone time.
South Africa’s World-renowned National Park
Kruger is after all the quintessential Big Five safari destination, with large numbers of all the most sought after and charismatic wildlife species, including wild dog, cheetah and more. Budding photographers will also like that the animals are extremely habituated
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and relaxed around vehicles, providing plenty of great opportunities for you to hone your photographic skills.Rather than complain about the paved roads or traffic, leave your car at a rest camp and join a qualified ranger on a guided night drive or escorted bush walk to track wildlife on foot. You won’t see another vehicle or person on these nature activities and, within seconds of setting off, you’ll feel that (previously absent) sense of wilderness wash over you like a soothing balm.
Wildlife Galore and Excellent Facilities
Access to Kruger is easy via plane or paved road, and there is an extensive and well-maintained network of camps. The downside, of course, is that a Kruger safari will not be a solitary or bush experience. During South African school holidays, the park’s camps can get extremely crowded, especially in the south, and early bookings
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are essential. If you are looking for more solitude, consider one of the private wildlife reserves around Kruger, either as a stand-alone destination or in combination with a self-drive itinerary in the park. Alternatively, focus on Kruger’s central and northern sectors and on the park’s smaller camps and take advantage of walking safaris or spending quiet time at the park’s many hides.Despite the high-season crowds, Kruger is huge and remains one of my favorite parks anywhere for its vibe, its fabulous wildlife and the complete ease, efficiency and comfort of doing a safari there on your own and at a very reasonable price.
South Africa’s Conservation Flagship
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camps and tarmac roads were designed more for the South African market rather than for overseas visitors; but you can still see what the country looked like a century ago if you visit the Makuleke concession at the northern end of the park. This is the Kruger at its emptiest and wildest, where the tarmac runs out, leaving nothing but elephant trails winding into the hidden gorges of the Lebombo Hills.South Africa's Star Player
You can't escape it – Kruger National Park is the most popular in South Africa and one of the most visited in Africa. Thousands of visitors flock here every year for Big Five encounters, the huge variety of accommodation, and the promise of everything from self-drive and walking safaris to guided safaris in open vehicles.
Of course, this all means that it can get pretty crowded, and the ease of driving along paved roads can detract from some of the ‘adventure’ feel, but it is still possible to escape the crowds.
A game drive during my last visit yielded a morning free from other vehicles, and I had a close-up encounter with a wounded male lion all to myself. Driving out of the park in my own car, I saw few other tourists but managed to spot elephant and giraffe and experienced a buffalo roadblock.
Great Infrastructure and Animals Galore
I think the Kruger is a great, accessible and not-too-pricey option for first-time safarigoers and more experienced game viewers alike. It’s great fun to self-drive and even small, non-4x4 hire cars can manage practically all the roads throughout the park. However, I strongly recommend taking the game drive option available at the park rest camps – the driver/guides are much better at spotting game than most of us, and on one trip I was rewarded with a leopard sighting I definitely wouldn’t have had on my own.
Kruger’s accommodation options are brilliant and very affordable if you go self-catering, with lots of facilities like cafes, shops and barbecue areas, and the game is abundant and very habituated. Of course, all this means the wilderness feeling is largely absent unless you book a walking safari and/or or focus on less-visited areas in the north of the park.
Kruger: South Africa’s Most Prolific Park
Kruger belongs in the elite of African wildlife parks and experiences. At once a byword for abundance and hugely accessible, Kruger is a brilliant place for first-time safari-goers. The infrastructure of paved roads is classic South Africa, and there are numerous guided activities, and excellent accommodation to suit a range of budgets. Opportunities also abound to follow quiet, unpaved roads through cheetah-rich plains or riverine woodlands. On one such drive, amid the clamour of high season, I spent a blissful half-hour alone with a young leopard, then watched hyenas emerge from their den beneath the earth. Perhaps needless to say, the wildlife here is peerless – Big Five, big cats … everything here seems writ on an epic scale. The park’s north is the highlight for birders, with plenty of northern specials you just don’t find elsewhere in the country. Other highlights, if any were needed, include soulful baobabs, serpentine river systems and the chance to spot everything from honey badgers to Sharpe’s grysbok.
One of Africa’s Giants
In addition, Kruger forms the centerpiece of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, which includes Limpopo National Park in Mozambique and Gonarezhou in Zimbabwe, and shares unfenced border with numerous private game reserves, creating a conservation area so vast that it boggles the mind.
You can spend weeks and weeks in Kruger. You can come back year after year. And you will never see it all.
Yes, it’s true that being so popular with both foreigners and South Africans alike, Kruger’s many rest camps can sometimes feel a little overcrowded and contrived. And indeed, some of the paved roads can resemble suburban highways. But there is no escaping the fact that this is a massive, untamed park, teeming with wildlife wherever you go.
Adventurous souls can explore off the beaten track in their 4x4s along any one of the dozens of routes set aside for backcountry
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enthusiasts. Moreover, there are several rustic camps that are not on the radar for the average visitor. In other words, there are plenty of opportunities to get away from the crowds if that’s what you want.You can even opt to stay in a five-star lodge and explore exclusive concessions, albeit for a premium price, of course.
Whenever I go to Kruger, I always see something new. I always come away with great sightings of many of the continent’s most iconic animals. And I always appreciate how important this park is for the continued survival of Africa’s wildlife.
Head for the ‘Wilder’ Side of the South African Giant
So much of the park is accessible that it’s actually quite easy to get off the beaten track to explore wilder areas. The northern section sees relatively few visitors and has a wonderful network of dirt tracks where you could have entire plains and valleys to yourself, especially in the off-season. The mopane veld, fever trees, kopjies studded with baobabs and the forested banks of the Limpopo evoke the wild immensity of Africa. During a recent trip we pitched our tents to a soundtrack of roaring lions at the lovely Tsendze Rustic Camp Site and Punda Maria Rest Camp and explored the entire park in a fully equipped ‘Tread Lite’ Suzuki Jimny (more affordable and more ecofriendly
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than heavier 4x4s).There are noticeboards at all the camps showing the day’s sightings (as well as yesterday’s). These boards alert you to the (possible) whereabouts of lions, wild dogs, leopard etc., but they also clue you in on what will surely be the busiest game-driving routes. Even around more densely populated camps there are quiet routes if you want to explore. On my most recent assignment in the park I fell in love with the Satara Rest Camp area. Sure, I counted nine cars at a lion sighting near the main road, but I also spent an entire afternoon and evening driving on dirt tracks along the N’wanetsi River Road and only saw two other vehicles. Added to that, the Mozambique border country is one of the most dramatic parts of the park. Head to N’wanetsi Picnic Spot for truly hypnotic bird’s-eye views across the river, plains and kopjies.
Don’t underestimate the tarmac. Bear in mind that, rather than detracting from the wilderness vibe, Kruger’s well-maintained road network actually adds to the wildlife sightings. The grazing animals are drawn to the rich grass that’s nourished by the runoff from the tarmac. The predators are lured by the comforting warmth of the blacktop, by the open vantage points … and, of course, by the congregating prey.
Most visitors stay in the southern third of the park and the relatively high visitor numbers make for face-to-face sightings of some of the most nonchalant predators in Africa. To make the most of this area, consider staying at one of the concession camps/lodges (the spectacular Kruger Shalati, for example) since their game-driving vehicles stay out either side of gate opening/closing times, offering predator sightings in solitude that few would ever expect from Kruger. Despite the possibility of good sightings here, it was the remoter northern sector of the park that really enchanted me.
Don’t underestimate Kruger. It’s far from the tame option and once you’ve been bitten by the Kruger bug you’ll understand why so many lifelong safari aficionados consider it Africa’s greatest park.