Matobo National Park
Expert Reviews (10)
Zimbabwe Parks
Mark is a travel writer who grew up in Africa and has written over 700 titles for Condé Nast Traveller, Travel Africa, BBC Wildlife and others.
3 people found this review helpful.
Iconographic Zimbabwean Scenery With Its Stunning Kopjes
More than just a wonderful scenic spot or a wildlife refuge, Matobo National Park is one of the cultural highlights of Zimbabwe. It should in fact be considered one of the world’s ‘power places’ – right up there alongside Great Zimbabwe Ruins as an African counterpart to Machu Picchu and Angkor Wat! Trek in Matobo and you will see great troops of baboons (and perhaps the leopards that feed on them). Fantastic eagle sightings await, too. But there are also ancient lookouts and fortifications, and the storage areas and forges where the warriors of Lobengula once made their fearsome assegais. In this park lies not only the ancient ‘Rain Shrine’ of the Ndebele but also the grave of Cecil Rhodes, who asked to be buried here on what he called ‘the view of the world’. Rhodes was a realist – I guess he figured that if he was going to have to spend eternity in one spot, he might as well give himself something interesting to look at!
Brian is an award winning travel writer, author of safari books and regular contributor to magazines such as BBC Wildlife and Travel Africa.
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Lost in a Lonely World of Granite
It was Mzilikazi, the first great leader of the Matabele, who called these bare granite summits the Matobo because to him they resembled a huddle of bald heads. Today these strange, brooding hills are still a holy place, riddled with caves whose walls are covered with prehistoric rock art, and Mzilikazi himself is buried here. No wonder the Matabele still call this Malindidzimu – the Place of Spirits. One of the best views is from Cecil Rhodes’s grave, perched on one of the highest points in the Matobo. From here what you see is a tumbledown landscape cast in granite, with weathered pinnacles and dizzy rock castles looming over deep, boulder-strewn valleys. Leopards are common here, although not easy to see, but you should have better luck if you go rhino-tracking, or spotting klipspringers clattering on tiptoe over the rocks. For birders the main attraction here are the Verreaux’s eagles that circle endlessly over the wind-blown summits. The Matobo Hills are the world’s number one stronghold for these magnificent raptors, with a current population of around 200 breeding pairs.
Paul is a travel writer, author of the Bradt guidebook to Zimbabwe and is closely involved in promoting tourism to Zimbabwe.
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Bald Heads & Black Eagles
The plusses for this park are its magnificent, towering granite ‘whalebacks’ and precarious-looking rock stacks, its scenically positioned lakes and the fact that it has one of the most concentrated collections of prehistoric rock paintings in Africa. Cecil Rhodes’ grave is here in a spectacular setting and the whole park is a photographer’s paradise. The rocks are home to an astonishing variety of raptors, including the largest population of Verreaux’s eagle in the world. On the minus side, although it has the densest concentration of leopard in Africa, they are largely nocturnal and seldom seen; and the Whovi Wilderness Area, which is designated as the game-viewing area, is not very wild and not very large, though you stand a fair chance of seeing the resident rhino, both black and white. I really love this park, but more for the amazing scenery and atmosphere than the wildlife.
Emma is an award-winning travel writer for Rough Guides, National Geographic Traveller, Travel Africa magazine and The Independent.
1 person found this review helpful.
Ancient Hills in the Heart of Matabeleland
I felt a strong spiritual presence when visiting the dwalas, or eroded granite kopjes, of the Matopos. Many others, apparently, feel the same; some of the dwalas appear precariously balanced, as if held in place by supernatural forces, and the rock art that adorns their caves hints at age-old secrets. Coloured grey, pink, ochre and gold by swathes of lichen, there’s an appealing, sculptural quality to the formations. I scrambled up a couple of them to admire the view of the surrounding bushland, which has been stocked with white rhinos – rangers will take you out on a tracking expedition on request.
The park was very quiet when I visited – it was just me, my guide and a couple of soaring eagles – but for me, that only added to the atmosphere.
Dale is a multi-award-winning writer and photographer with more than 500 published magazine articles featured in magazines such as National Geographic, BBC Wildlife, Travel Africa, and CNN Travel.
Granite Whalebacks and Invisible Leopards
“Go take a hike,” said my tour guide once we had set up our tents in the Unesco World Heritage Matobo National Park. “It's awe-inspiring territory out there”.
He wasn’t wrong.
The smooth granite hills that typify Matobo are easy to walk upon, and the scenery is to die for (especially if one gets too close to some of the precipitous drop-offs). Impossibly poised boulders, some as large as houses, sit like ill-balanced eggs atop rounded domes, which are, in turn, surrounded by grasslands and forests. The larger specimens are known as whalebacks because, well, they look like pods of whales arching out of a sea of trees.
My wife and I sat upon one of these, beneath the shadow of a huge split boulder, and watched the African sun disappear below a horizon cluttered with bizarre and wonderful rock formations. A big troop of baboons were going berserk on the dome opposite us, probably because they had seen a leopard on the prowl, but alas, even though Matobo is reputed to have one of the largest densities of these cats in all of Africa, they are seldom observed by people. I’ve been to this park numerous times, and the most I’ve seen of them are their footprints and scats.
Although the leopards might well be elusive, the grand scenery of Matobo is always on full display. Be it the numerous geological formations (some of which sport ancient rock paintings) or the lovely lakes and forests, you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else quite so beautiful in all of Zimbabwe.
Wildlife can be a bit thin on the ground. There is a specially guarded section of the park where rhinos can be seen, but you won't encounter lions or elephants at all.
Birding is great though, and you’ll also have the opportunity to spot common game such as zebra, kudu and eland. Klipspringers and rock hyrax are two a penny.
Cecil John Rhodes (after which Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe, was named) is buried on a prominent lookout atop one of the largest hills of Matobo. Even if you don’t feel like paying homage to such a divisive colonial figure, the views alone make it well worth the climb.
Stephen is a travel writer and avid conservationist whose work appears in prestigious magazines such as Africa Geographic and Travel Africa.
Scenically Stunning but With Only Limited Wildlife
Also referred to as the Matopos, this small national park and Unesco World Heritage Site was primarily established to protect a section of the Matobo Hills – the unique boulder-strewn landscapes of southern Zimbabwe. Extruded granite has been weathered and eroded over time to form the iconic smooth whalebacks and ubiquitous broken koppies that pepper this park. There is no denying that the Matobo Hills exude a powerful wilderness vibe, as well as unusual and arresting scenery, but it’s not a place you would choose to visit on your safari if you want to see large numbers of wild animals. Legions of leopards are said to reside within this prime hilly habitat, but in three visits to the region, I’ve never spotted one.
Philip is an acclaimed travel writer and author of many guidebooks, including the Bradt guides to Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa.
Land of Giant Boulders
Matobo National Park lies in the Matobo (or Matopos) Hills, a stunning landscape of gigantic granite domes and bizarre balancing rock formations situated around 30km south of Bulawayo, Zimbabwe’s second-largest city. In addition to the magnificent boulderscapes, the park contains some superb prehistoric rock art sites. These include the monochrome animal outlines at White Rhino Shelter and some outstanding figures of running giraffes at Nswatugi Cave.
The most popular place to visit in Matobo National Park is the aptly named ‘View of the World’. Here, the grave of Cecil John Rhodes (the British imperialist who founded Rhodesia, as Zimbabwe was known prior to independence) stands atop a vast whaleback at the centre of a ring of giant boulders where you might see colourful agama lizards, twitchy-nosed elephant shrews, and the near-endemic boulder chat. Elsewhere, there are no restrictions on walking, and hikers often encounter klipspringer, rock hyrax, impala and the magnificent Verreaux’s eagle.
Matobo is not a conventional safari destination. On my most recent visit, I saw almost no large mammals, with one notable exception in the form of white rhino, which I tracked on foot with an armed ranger – the only national park in Zimbabwe where this unforgettable activity is currently offered. I also did a self-drive game drive in the fenced Whovi Game Area, which is home to the park’s only black rhino and giraffe, but I saw neither, and the poor condition of the roads made for a stressful outing.
Mike is an award-winning wildlife writer, former editor of Travel Zambia magazine and author of the Bradt Guide to Southern African Wildlife.
Bald Is Beautiful
On my most recent visit to Matobo, in April 2018, I found it little changed from my last visit nearly 25 years earlier. The park’s unique appeal appears unspoilt by the difficulties that have affected other conservation regions in Zimbabwe. The other-worldly landscape of balancing stones and granite whalebacks for which this park got its name (Matobo means ‘bald-headed’) continues to offer a fabulous natural playground that is easily explored by the independent traveller, whether on foot or by vehicle. And though just 420 sq km in area, the park stills feel much larger than it appears on the map, with its picturesque terrain stretching to the horizon in all directions. Where once the accommodation options were largely limited to the national park rest camp at Maleme Dam, a selection of private lodges located on the edge of the park now each offer their own take on the same arresting landscape, plus a selection of guided activities. It is not essential to stay over – the park is small enough for a day trip from Bulawayo, Zimbabwe’s second city – but it is certainly worth taking at least a couple of nights to appreciate Matobo’s unique appeal.
Game viewing is best in the 105-sq-km game park, a separate fenced zone (also known as the Whovi Wilderness Area) that has been boosted by restocking from Hwange. Here you can see both white and black rhino, as well as hippo, giraffe, zebra and a variety of antelope, including sable. However, game is widespread throughout the whole park. I joined an excellent guided walk in the main unfenced public area, where we not only had extremely close encounters with white rhinos, their cropped horns a sobering sign of the times, but also met zebra, wildebeest, warthog, kudu and impala. Matobo has no lions, elephants or buffalo, and the reputedly numerous leopards tend to stay hidden, but there are many unusual species adapted to the rocky terrain, from klipspringers and baboons to rock hyraxes and Africa’s highest concentration of Verreaux’s eagles. Other notable wildlife includes some interesting reptiles, from giant plated lizards and common flat lizards to rock pythons and – judging from both personal experience and the stories of others – an unusual abundance of black mambas.
It’s not all about wildlife. Follow any of the numerous marked trails and you’ll also find caves adorned with ancient rock art tucked away among the statuesque rock formations. The area’s rich history is nowhere better appreciated than from the grave site of colonial ruler Cecil John Rhodes at the aptly named World’s View. A controversial figure he may be, but the views are undeniably glorious – and you might just spy a tail-flicking boulder chat or one of the delightful rock elephant-shrews that dash between crevices in the sun-warmed granite.
Lizzie is a reputed guidebook writer and author of the Footprint guides to South Africa, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Zimbabwe.
A Solid Granite Plateau Best-Known for Rock Art and Rhino-Spotting
While I’ve always easily seen wildebeest, giraffe, zebra and common species of antelope in Matobo’s wooded valleys, I don’t find this park particularly special in terms of game viewing. There’s a high concentration of leopard, but with no opportunity to do night drives these remain pretty elusive, and elephant and lion aren’t present. But there are exceptions: I’ve never had any problem locating both black and white rhino (which breed here successfully), baboons and vervet monkeys can be seen scrambling over the rocks, and I find the semi-tame multi-coloured agama lizards in the car parks oddly absorbing. Additionally, Matobo’s numerous rock paintings are fairly interesting, and the grave of British imperialist Cecil John Rhodes at World’s View is a good vantage point from which to see the park’s distinctive granite balancing rocks.
Ariadne is a renowned African wildlife photographer whose work is featured in many well-known guidebooks and magazines.
Matobo National Park: A Giant’s Playground
The main attraction of Matobo National Park is its spectacular scenery. Huge granite boulders balance in elaborate formations creating a scene often referred to as a giant’s playground. I saw little wildlife here on my most recent visit. You could be lucky to see giraffes and there are several antelope species in the park as well. Most notable are the agile klipspringers that thrive in this environment. So are the rock hyrax, the favorite prey of black eagles that can often be seen soaring above the cliffs.
On a drive around the park, you might come across white rhino as well. However, it is worth booking a rhino-tracking trip to increase your chances of seeing these endangered heavyweights. Furthermore, the experience of seeing them on foot is a lot more exciting than from a car.
Other highlights include a visit to Rhodes’ Grave. A little site museum gives insight into the controversial life story of Cecil John Rhodes. Even if that doesn’t excite you, his burial site, named World’s View, is worth a visit for the glorious vista across the park alone.
Last but not least are the numerous ancient rock art paintings dotted around the park. You could spend a week here exploring all the different sites, but with limited time, a visit to the easily accessible Nswatugi Cave rock paintings is highly recommended.
Safari Tours to Matobo NP
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7-Day Victoria Falls, Hwange NP and Matobo NP Experience
$3,109 to $3,572 pp (USD)
Zimbabwe: Private tourLuxuryLodge & Hotel
You Visit: Victoria Falls (Start), Hwange NP, Matobo NP, Bulawayo (End)
Off2Africa Travel
5.0/5 – 141 Reviews
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7-Day Best of Around Zimbabwe Expedition - Budget Trip
$2,012 pp (USD)
Zimbabwe: Private tour
Mid-range Lodge & HotelYou Visit: Victoria Falls (Start), Hwange NP, Matobo NP, Great Zimbabwe (Ruins), Bulawayo (End)
Dream Africa Vacations
4.9/5 – 27 Reviews
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![9-Day Highlights of Zimbabwe]()
9-Day Highlights of Zimbabwe
$3,445 pp (USD)
Zimbabwe: Shared tour (max 21 people per vehicle)
Mid-range Lodge & Guest HouseYou Visit: Harare (Start), Great Zimbabwe (Ruins), Matobo NP, Hwange NP, Victoria Falls, Victoria Falls Airport (End)
Africa Zim Travel & Tours
4.9/5 – 159 Reviews
