Reviews of Mosi-Oa-Tunya (From 10 Acclaimed Safari Experts)

Expert

Philip Briggs –

ZA

Visited: Multiple times

Philip is an acclaimed travel writer and author of many guidebooks, including the Bradt guides to Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa.

5 people found this review helpful.

The Smoke That Thunders

Overall rating

4/5

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Named after the local name for Victoria Falls – Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning ‘the Smoke That Thunders’ – this small park is a fixture on almost all safari itineraries through Zambia since it protects the Zambian half of the waterfall that justifiably made a recent National Geographic list of the seven natural wonders of the modern world. The mile-wide waterfall is utterly spectacular and an unmissable sight – I’ve visited it more than six times, and its stature grows with every visit – but the part of the park that stretches upriver from the waterfalls is also enjoyable for its wildlife, which includes elephant, buffalo, baboon and vervet monkey. There are no lions or leopards in Mosi-oa-Tunya, but it is the only place in Zambia where you can see white rhinos – albeit in rather contrived circumstances. The small herd, introduced from South Africa, is monitored 24/7 by a group of rangers and fed during the Dry season to ensure it is always easily located.

It is definitely worth taking a canoe trip along the Zambezi as it runs along the park’s southern boundary: hippos and crocodiles are plentiful, and the riverine forest hosts some interesting birds, including the beautiful Schalow’s turaco, the noisy trumpeter hornbill and the very localised Livingstone’s flycatcher.

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Expert

Ariadne van Zandbergen –

ZA

Visited: Multiple times

Ariadne is a renowned African wildlife photographer whose work is featured in many well-known guidebooks and magazines.

5 people found this review helpful.

Victoria Falls – the Smoke that Thunders

Overall rating

4/5

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The national park has two sections; the Zambian side of Victoria Falls and a small game park. Victoria Falls is one of Africa’s must-see, bucket-list attractions. It is the world’s largest sheet of falling water and it stretches between the neighboring countries Zimbabwe and Zambia. Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning ‘the Smoke that Thunders’, is an apt name for one of the greatest natural spectacles on earth. The sun is part of this phenomenal sight, and the views keep changing throughout the day. I always treat myself to at least two visits. One of which must be at sunset when the orange glow creates a dreamy impression of this force of nature. Even better if you arrange to visit the falls from both countries as the experiences are very different.

While the game park doesn’t really match up to Zambia’s iconic parks such as South Luangwa and Kafue, it is worth a morning or afternoon. There are no large predators in the park, but we saw elephants, giraffes, zebras and lots of antelope. Several white rhinos have been reintroduced here and tracking these endangered animals on foot was a highlight of our visit.

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Expert

Emma Gregg –

UK

Visited: Multiple times

Emma is an award-winning travel writer for Rough Guides, National Geographic Traveller, Travel Africa magazine and The Independent.

2 people found this review helpful.

Mighty falls, and a spot of gentle wildlife-watching

Overall rating

4/5

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I love Victoria Falls from every angle, close-up or at a distance. Whether you’re witnessing it at ground level, through the window of a helicopter or from the back of a microlight, in low water or in flood, it always provokes a monumental reaction of excitement and respect for the power of nature and gravity. But opinions are divided as to whether the best views are from the Zambian side, or from Zimbabwe. I have to say, I prefer the Zimbabwean side – there’s more space, more viewpoints and you get to see the mighty cataracts face on.

But the Falls are not the only reason to visit Zambia’s Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park – you can also go on game drives here. The wildlife-watching isn’t exactly spectacular, but if you’re into antelopes, giraffes and zebras you’ll be happy enough, and there are a few rhinos too. Plus, there are adrenaline activities to get your teeth into. Unfortunately however, the accommodation in this area is rather pricey.

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Expert

Mary Fitzpatrick –

US

Visited: October

Mary is an acclaimed travel writer and author of many Lonely Planet guidebooks, including South Africa, Tanzania, East Africa and Africa.

1 person found this review helpful.

Victoria Falls & the Zambezi

Overall rating

4/5

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Almost everyone who visits this park comes to see the mighty Zambezi River plunging more than 100m/320ft downwards at Victoria Falls. The falls are classified as a Unesco World Heritage Site and considered one of the world's natural wonders for a reason: the roar of the water (Mosi-oa-Tunya means ‘Smoke That Thunders’), the mist and spray, the rainbows, the dripping moisture and lush vegetation along the shady surrounding paths and the magnificent vistas are unforgettable. Although the park is on the Zambia side, I prefer the full-on views of the Falls and the overall experience from the Zimbabwe side. If possible, try to schedule enough time to visit both. The nearby wildlife section of Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is somewhat of an anticlimax, but makes a pleasant excursion after exploring the Falls. Elephants, giraffe and zebra are common and the park is notable for its small introduced population of white rhinos.

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Expert

Mark Eveleigh –

UK

Visited: December

Mark is a travel writer who grew up in Africa and has written over 700 titles for Condé Nast Traveller, Travel Africa, BBC Wildlife and others.

1 person found this review helpful.

Swimming elephants amid churning cascades

Overall rating

4/5

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Mosi-oa-Tunya, ‘the smoke that thunders’, must be one of the most evocative names in all Africa. The mere idea of a national park that is bathed in the spray of the great Victoria Falls is enough to set the most intrepid heart hammering. This tiny Zambian park lies less than 5km/3mi upriver from the falls. It is bordered by the high-density housing of Livingstone’s Kashitu suburb. Officially the park combines two sights: Victoria Falls World Heritage National Monument Site and Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.

It’s one of Zambia’s smallest parks so don’t expect mind-blowing sightings. It’s good if you’re heading onwards to one of the region’s bigger parks or already seen the wildlife you’d hoped to. Then you can happily soak up the riverside atmosphere of the spectacular top o’ the falls landscapes. There’s an unusual intensity to a sundowner near the historical graveyard (in the park itself). Many pioneers were laid to rest here more than a century ago. The park can get busy but, for a sense of solitude (and world-class birding), try to experience a sunset boat cruise.

I spent hours watching swimming elephants crossing freely between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Their humped backs and trunk-snorkels are obvious explanations for at least some of the legends of dinosaurs in remote African lakes. Thorntree River Lodge (within the park) is perhaps the ideal place to watch the elephant herds crossing, and battling boisterously with resident hippos. Guides at Thorntree are also able to secure you visits to some of Mosi-oa-Tunya’s other iconic residents. A chance to spend time on foot on the fringe of the herd of heavily protected white rhino is an unforgettable highlight of a visit to the area. Baby-rhino Jackie, a highly mischievous 200kg/441lb toddler, was certainly the star of the show.

1 person found this review helpful. Did you? Yes No

Expert

Kim Wildman –

AU

Visited: Multiple times

Kim is a travel writer who authored and updated over 15 guidebooks, including Lonely Planet's South Africa and Bradt's Tanzania guides.

1 person found this review helpful.

The smoke which thunders

Overall rating

4/5

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Located along the upper Zambezi River, this small park provides sanctuary to elephant, buffalo, zebra, giraffe and a variety of antelope. Taking a game drive around the park’s circular route is a relaxing way to spend a few hours, however, the main reason to come here of course is the Victoria Falls. A main stay of top 10 lists of African experiences, it really is a sight that has to be seen to be believed. The best time to visit is during the rainy season when the water flow is at its swirling, thundering peak. That said, the benefit of visiting during the dry season is that you can access the world’s best natural infinity pool – Devil’s Pool. Perched on the literal edge of the falls, those who are brave enough can swim right up to where the Zambezi spills over a chasm twice the height of Niagara Falls. It’s not for the faint-hearted though. Peering over the edge of the falls has to rate as one of the scariest – and most exhilarating – experiences I’ve ever had… And not one I’ll be rushing back to do again.

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Expert

Christopher Clark –

UK

Visited: June

Christopher is a British travel writer and has contributed to various Fodor's guidebooks and a range of travel magazines.

1 person found this review helpful.

A staggering natural wonder and some easy Zambezi game viewing

Overall rating

4/5

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Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is the gateway to the Zambian side of Victoria Falls. Over the years this incredible natural wonder has exhausted all the superlatives in the dictionary in attempts to describe it, but none manage to do it justice. You have to see the Falls for yourself.

Once your jaw has returned to its usual position, sign up for some of the unprecedented number of adrenaline activities on offer in and around the Falls and the surrounding national park. White-water rafting down the rapids from Batoka Gorge remains one of the best and scariest things I’ve done anywhere in Africa. Peering over the precipice of the aptly named Devil’s Pool then enjoying high tea on Livingstone Island is another highlight. Note that such activities are not always available in the wetter months, though by the same token, this is when the thundering falls are at their most majestic. Whatever time of year you choose to visit, an evening boat/booze cruise is always a solid bet, with lots of elephant, hippo and crocodile sightings pretty much guaranteed.

You can also game drive inside the pretty game park section of the national park, which is separate from the Falls section. The entire park is only 66 square kilometres, but this part of it is surprisingly quiet and game rich considering its proximity to the Falls and the busy town of Livingstone. You can easily cover most of it in a day and there are some lovely riverside picnic spots along the way.

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