Okavango Delta

Best Assortment of animals in diverse settings; the big five, small five, ugly five and many birds

As a long time traveler, I was concerned that my trip to the Okavango Delta would be marred by excessive tourism or local ennui with visitors. I experienced neither! From seeing predators in action to almost co-habiting with wildlife, there were wonders to enjoy every day. I probably took over 5000 photos -- of rare and common birds, of extraordinary bugs, and predator/prey behaviors, there was never a time when I was not mesmerized. I stayed in AndBeyond Sandibe Okavango Lodge (probably the most elegant of all I have stayed in) where customer service is phenomenal, and, most importantly the guides and trackers were amazing. Also stayed at Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp where the guides tailor made the safaris to our liking. Time on the water was magical. Locals are delightful. If I could, I would go back to Botswana every single year, as there is still so much more to see. AndBeyond, while not cheap, was worth every single dollar spent.

Magic surroundings, unique scenery,

The Okavango Delta scenery is quite unique and as you have to fly a small plane to get to one of the lodges, you can realize it as soon as you board. It is very remote and with the water reflection the light is a wonder and you ear the bush noises so clearly day or night (you can ear hyenas grunting , lions roaring, bell frogs croaking etc.). For wildlife, scarce elephants and hippos are guaranteed. But you may not see cats if you don't book in a lodge offering game drives. Most of the lodges have boat activities and bush walks (a great experience indeed), but few have game drives. If you think you will be frustrated not to see lions, choose lodges with gale drives. If you can afford to stay in two places (one in the north, one in the south), it might be advisable as you'll probably see different things. Quality wise, the accommodation we booked was not a bargain. Lodges are very expensive and the service is not quite as good as we might expect for what we paid (I know, it is the bush but...) The thing is if you are used to other safari accommodations (I live in South Africa and have tried quite a few..) you can have real value for money (even if it is not as spectacular as the Okavango)...

The Okavango Delta

The Okavango Delta
Henk Reitsma
Some years ago my wife and I made a roundtrip through a number of countries in Southern Africa. We travelled with a group from Cape Town to the Victoria Falls. The absolute highlight was our visit to the Okavango Delta in Botswana. It was March, so in the wet season with the Delta completely filled.
We slept two nights on a houseboat placed on the edge of the Delta area.
We departed in the morning to the Delta and first had to drive a few kilometers with a truck (Photo 1), passing a small village with rondavel huts (photo 2). Along the road laid the carcass of an elephant (Photo 3), probably shot by the village people to protect their crops.
There were 10 boats (mokoro’s ) and 10 guides (Photo 4) waiting for our group with 20 participants and subsequently we started our tour over the Delta through high grasses and reed. In each mokoro two persons were sitting. The guides were very careful to avoid the hyppo’s and asked us not to make noise. We heard elephants in the distances and saw a glimp of the herd when standing in the mokoro. However I almost lost my equilibrium and almost fell in the water.
After two hours we entered a small island to have lunch (Photo 5) and subsequently made a walk (Photo 6) over this island guided by two guides. We found the remains of a buffalo, probably killed by a lion (according to our guide), which reminded us again that we walked through a terrain with wild animals.
On our way back we saw some deer in the distance. After 1 ½ hour we arrived at our point of departure. It was a splendid tour through a wonderful water world. Even after a couple of years I still have vivid memory of our visit to the Okavango Delta.

A safari full of humour and beauty

The Okavango Delta provided more beauty than any of other safari destinations we stayed at. The beautiful sunsets over the water gave us memories to always remember. The scenery was incredible. In terms of accomodation we had great food and excellent service. Our rooms gave us our own private balcony with a stunning view. The staff were very funny and good with kids. However, sometimes they joked around and would miss small details like birds. As we also stayed in safari lodges in Zambia, we found that the staff at the Botswana safari lodges had a lot more humour and seemed to love a laugh. One night they even sung and danced to us and the other guests. In conclusion, the Okavango Delta was a beautiful, enjoyable and fun experience and I would recommend it to anyone.

A once in a lifetime trip that did not disappoint.

From the moment we arrived at Belmond Eagle Island Resort, we were made to feel like royalty. The entire staff greeted us at the entrance in song, followed by refreshments and tour. The accommodations redefine the term "glamping" with our beautifully appointed tent that included an outdoor shower (as well as an interior shower and soaker tub), a walk-in closet and infinity pool on our deck. The food was as expected, just wonderful.
We chose the month of June as it's the ideal time to see the wildlife due to the fact its the wet season. Unfortunately, it just happened that it was the driest June they've experienced in 10 years. That said, it did not hamper or affect our visit in any manner. While sitting on our deck in our first minutes of arriving, we watched elephants, hippos, antelope, eagles, warthogs etc....thinking, who needs to go on a drive when you're surrounded by all of this wildlife.
We were assigned a guide when we arrived. The daily routine was, your guide comes to your tent at 6:00am with coffee for your wake up call. Breakfast at 6:30 then meet at the jeep for 7:00 - 7:30. The morning drive goes until approx 11:00am, return for lunch and then 'siesta' time until 3:00 when you meet at the main lodge for "tea" then back to the jeep for 3:30 for your afternoon drive. The afternoon drive lasts until sundown which ends at a scenic spot at which the guide sets up a little bar so you can enjoy a cocktail while you watch the sunset.
Being winter at that time, the morning temperature can be quite cool (between 5-10 degrees celsius). While they advise you to wear layers, fleece lined ponchos were provided as well as blankets for the morning drive. By the end of the morning drive however the layers are peeled off at the temperature shot up to the mid 20's. I don't think we saw a cloud the whole time we were there.
As a professional photographer I was thrilled that we had drives that included the beautiful 'golden hour light'. I was also very happy that our driver had a good understanding of light for photography and would always position our vehicle for the best possible angle to take pictures.
I won't get into the actual wildlife we witnessed, only to say that we pretty much saw it all, including the Big 5 - Lion, Leopard, Rhino, Elephant and Cape Buffalo. Our guide was amazing in his ability to track the various animals along with his knowledge of the area and wildlife.
Being a private reserve, we rarely saw another vehicle which for me enhanced the experience. As a bonus, I treated myself to a helicopter ride over the area which was a highlight of the trip, to see and photograph the animals from a different perspective. I would highly recommend the Belmond Lodges for that 'once in a lifetime trip and experience'

Great wildlife sightings (both predators and plains animals) and birdlife. Delta from the air is magical for photography, with sitatungas in the channel and same as kwando - focus of guiding on what we are there for - wildlife

I was seized by the reality of the Okavango Delta upon seeing a leopard in a tree with its kill.

We booked our southern Africa tour with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT), because we had an exceptional experience with them in Egypt and Jordan in the prior year. The African tour also proved to be as seamless, from one connection to the next. July proved to be the best month for the tour: clear skies; no mosquitoes; and temperate weather, albeit cool mornings.

Upon landing on the Okavango Delta dirt strip, on July 14, we were met by our guides and driven in open "jeeps" towards Dumelang Wilderness Tented Camp. En route, we saw red lechwe and white beaked vultures. Then, our driver, a keen tracker, drove up to a tree. Perched high in the yoke was a leopard calmly eating the remains of a fresh impala. I had to remind myself that I was face-to-face with a big untamed, wild cat. In real time. We sat there for several minutes taking spectacular pictures. Then the leopard slowly let herself down to the ground. To our delight, our guide/driver paralleled the leopard as she loped through the savannah, paying no attention to us. She then stopped and sat down. Next to her was a female cub, about two months old, according to the guide. We stopped, approximately 40 yards from the cats. Then, the cub got up and walked towards us - the cub was curious! Mama leopard stayed where she was, but stood, hyper vigilant, tail pointing to the sky. The cub walked up to our jeep, looked around, then went back to her mother. All this occurred before reaching our lodge.

The amenities of the tented cabin were splendid. Big, comfortable king-size bed protected by mosquito netting, ceiling fan, 12 volt electrical system for lighting, hot and cold running water, shower, sink and flush toilet, plus adequate storage for our gear. A hot water bottle was provided for warmth to ease the cool nighttime temperatures in bed (low tech, but worked well - and its refillable, if needed).

Breakfasts were warm and hearty. Lunch was provided on the afternoon game drives in the savannah, with plenty of snacking opportunities. The evening dinners were a feast, often at the gourmet level. The constant supply of goodies reminds one of a cruise ship.

Elephant, cape buffalo, impalas, lions, hippos, crocodiles and several bird species war in abundant supply. Every game drive revealed a changing array of animals.

Visiting the Okavango Delta is an amazing, unforgettable experience

For the duration of the trip, I traveled with a guide from Zimbabwe who currently resides South Africa. For the trip to Okavango Delta, we met up with 8-10 polers who helped us navigate the delta and assisted us with the campsite and dinner.

Highlights:

Our guide. That man worked his butt off to make sure things went right, even when every other turn seemed to present some other problem. He turned the "bad" stuff into just a blip on our vacation timeline.

The Okavango Delta. The whole trip was amazing. Our campsite was only available by "polers" pushing us along in Makoros along hippo-created paths along the reeds. SO amazing. And the polers were friendly and fun and awesome to spend time with.
Seeing elephants. And zebras. And rhinos... no glass or fence separation. Just us with the animals. Not that that meant better photos of said experiences, however. We kept cracking jokes that people who went to a local zoo would have better pictures that we did, but only because those visitors had convenient protection from being attacked. ;-)

The helicopter ride (without helicopter doors!!) just after we exited the delta. The ride was an add-on but 100% worth it.

Seriously. I don't think there was a single place who wouldn't bend over backwards to help others.

The trip far, far exceeded my expectations.

Awesome!

First the bad news: the flights (usually at least 3) are endless and exhausting; for most mortals; for most mortals, the prices are painful; getting up at 5:30 every morning is not my idea of pleasure; and there are mosquitoes.

The good news is that the wildlife and the vistas more than compensate for the long flights, the high prices, the early rising and the occasional itch. The wildlife is forever changing from camp to camp and from day to day. You experience the wildlife with an electrifying, personal immediacy - - - without the distraction of competing vehicles that mar game viewing in much of southern Africa.

After three separate visits to Botswana and stays at some 10 different camps, we have come to prefer the smaller (perhaps 12 guests) and less luxurious camps.
We are too old to enjoy roughing it, but jacuzzis seem out of place to us. We also prefer for a longer time at fewer camps, getting more familiar with the locale, the local wildlife and the guide.

The photography is wonderful, but it can be a distraction. From time to time, the distracting camera should be put back in its bag while you just breathe in deeply and try to absorb the scene around you. Another photographic distraction might best be described as 'lens envy". There is always someone at your camp with a longer, faster lens. The pricey equipment makes sense for professionals and serious bird-watchers, but most of the game is so large or gets so close that lugging a $5,000 is no necessary.

The pleasures of Botswana reflect the commitment of the government, the camps and their skilled staff to sound, protective care of the environment and the creatures in it.