We had three nights in the Serengeti. We had our boxed lunch at the Naabi Hill gate. And then animals. We saw: baboons, zebras, wildebeest, Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelles, giraffes, one lonely buffalo, a dik-dik for a very short period of time, a vulture, a Marabou crane, hartebeest, large group of elephants at a mud hole, suicidal guinea fowl continually running in front of the vehicle, and a large herd of impalas.
Best finds of the day: a pride of lions napping on the sunny rocks of a kopje, not long after we entered the park. A leopard sleeping in tree, barely visible in the pattern of the leaf shadows. A visibly cranky elephant, that raised its ears and trumpeted at us as we slowed down to watch a family near a stream (we moved on quickly!) and just before we left the park that evening, we watched two large hippos quickly exit their waterhole and move off in opposite directions in the bush. Left on its own was a smallish crocodile.
That night and the next we stayed at Ikoma Tented Camp. I loved it! At the attractive reception building we were greeted with juice and hot facecloths, and then escorted along a winding manicured path to our “tent”. This was more like a cabin with canvas walls, built on a stone platform, with a burlap and thatch roof, and a bathroom made of décor concrete, featuring shower, sink, and toilet. The beds had ample mosquito nets. Maybe the best part was our front porch with three chairs looking out into the Savannah. In fact, all the tents have a view facing the wild. In the evening, guards are stationed along the path to escort guests to the bar/restaurant, and they also patrol the camp throughout the night. Which is reassuring when you hear the hyenas!
After a good night’s sleep (except for the hyenas) we all had a hot shower, and after breakfast were off on our second day in the Serengeti.
Beside the usual elephants, zebras, giraffes and impalas, the day included ostrich, many hippos, a Monitor lizard, an African fish eagle, an adorable baby baboon, and two jackals. We had lunch at the Seronera Interpretation Centre, where we were up-close and personal with hyraxes and yellow mongoose. The big find of the day was a tree of lions – six females and one cub! We also found a leopard in a tree – this time we had a good view of his face.
After lunch we experienced our first rain shower. Big dark clouds had indicated that it was raining elsewhere, and we kept coming upon muddy roads. We got stuck briefly on our way to the Maasai kopje, but Thadei expertly extricated us with the use of the four-wheel drive. We decided to head for the camp a bit earlier than usual. I was looking forward to a beer in the dining tent. However, on the way home, the road diverged into two tracks – one deeply muddy, the other a small lake. We made the wrong choice, and ended up mired in the mud. Thadei took off his shoes, rolled up his pant legs and waded into the muck, but no amount of jacking seemed to work, and there was no wood or rocks to use as traction. So he radioed his fellow drivers for help. Since we were not allowed out of the vehicle, we used the time to look calm and peruse the guide books.
One vehicle (plus passengers) turned up, but the pull cable broke and they departed. A second call for assistance was made. Two vehicles (plus passengers) turned up, but the first one got us out on its own. The whole experience took about an hour. Then we rushed back to Ikoma. Thadei turned up as we were finishing supper, and we bought him a beer, toasting his heroic efforts in the mud. Then back to the tent, hot showers all round, and another sound sleep.
Up and at em. Breakfast, and away in the car just after 8 am. This was a day for just looking, no great distances to cover. We again had lunch at the Seronera Interpretation Centre, where we again saw many hyraxes, agama lizards and a few yellow mongoose. This time we took the "understanding the great migration" tour with a guide-in-training. And now I think I have finally grasped it!
This was a big giraffe day - they were everywhere. We also saw lots of elephants, impala, and two families of warthogs, a falcon, a vulture, and many agama lizards.
Happy times: visiting the interpreted hippo pool and seeing what seemed like a hundred of them, with two young crocodiles basking on rocks in the sun. We returned to the lion tree from yesterday, and again watched them snoozing – this time two cubs were visible. And for our daily leopard, this time we saw two of them in a tree – and a dead impala tucked up there with them!
At 5 o'clock we arrived at the Seronera Wildlife Lodge. Another amazing place, maybe even more unique than the Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge. It is built into and around the giant rocks of a kopje. There are intricate carvings on- well, everything. It has to be seen. The pool and the viewing platform were spectacular, overlooking the Serengeti, giraffes grazing the tree tops, a hippo pool in the near distance, monkeys in the trees, and a magnificent sunset.
Supper in a large dining room, buffet style, food was fine, not spectacular. Service was good. Yes, this lodge is a trifle run down. But I defy any modern lodge to rival this one for creative and unique design and architecture. Did I mention the bar? You have to go.
For the first time, we started off at 6 am for a game drive. No one was about, we saw the sun come up, two jackals, and several zebras crossed in front of us. A balloon safari was being launched, and we watched them float away. The early morning light gorgeous. We stopped by the lion tree and watched as two female lions and a cub started to climb it. And then the magic moment: close to the road on a fallen tree, three female lions and at least nine cubs. A lion day care! We stayed for a long time and took many pictures. Thadei sent out word and before long at least ten other vehicles arrived, including a jeep with Serengeti lion scientists. We left and went for breakfast, very happy as you can imagine. On the road by 9:30am, the first thing we came across was a group of topi. Next we saw a hippo in a field, eating, covered in mud and birds. A little way down the road we saw a hippo climb out of a pond, and wander away. We watched for some time. It was clear he wasn't going back into that pond - he headed out of sight and we went on. I was thrilled because I love hippos and it was my first good look at them on land.
The Serengeti was all my childhood experience of watching Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom promised, and I’m glad we spent three days there. I hope to one day see the migration!