Ruaha National Park
Visitors are often surprised to learn that Ruaha is bigger than the Serengeti. At more than 20,000km2/7,700mi2, this is Tanzania’s second-largest national park (after Nyerere) and one of those safari destinations that tends to attract the ‘best-kept secret’ epithet. It’s true that for such a vast area, Ruaha is surprisingly undeveloped, with only a handful of permanent camps and few other vehicles to crowd your game drives. This makes any safari here a joy, because the wildlife is extremely rich.
Ecologically, Ruaha spans a transition zone between eastern and southern Africa. Its habitats comprise a tapestry of thorn bush, open savanna, rocky kopjes and wooded hills, all studded with the park’s signature baobabs. The winding Jongomero and Great Ruaha Rivers define the southern and eastern boundaries. Across this wilderness roams Tanzania’s largest population of elephants (around 15,000), plus plentiful buffalo, giraffe, zebra and numerous hippos in the permanent rivers. Impala are abundant. The park is at the southern limit for some East African antelope, such as Grant’s gazelle and lesser kudu – the latter alongside greater kudu in a rare overlap. Sable and roan occur in the Jongomera area to the south
Ruaha is renowned for large predators, notably its large lion prides and frequently sighted leopards. Both cheetah and wild dog also occur in small numbers, spotted hyena are numerous and striped hyena is another East Africa species that just ventures this far south (though is seldom seen). Birders can seek out more than 500 species with, again, an interesting overlap of the eastern and southern African. Variety peaks during the rains (November to April), with such unusual migrants as sooty and Eleonora’s falcon. The endemic Tanzania red-billed hornbill is common.
My recent visit took place during the dry season, based at a small camp beside the Mwagusi River. We enjoyed excellent lion and leopard encounters, while every afternoon saw impressive elephant herds wander down to dig for fresh water in the drying riverbeds. A night drive produced white-tailed mongoose, bat-eared fox and lesser bush baby. On a guided bush walk, we spied shy eland, found bats roosting inside a baobab, saw an African hawk eagle capture a francolin and watched wild dogs hunting across the Ruaha River floodplain far below us. Guided walks are available from many camps if booked in advance. Best of all was simply the wilderness ambience of starlit nights around the fire in the sandy riverbed in front of camp, listening to the owls and picking up the torchlit eyeshine of passing hyenas and jackals. For the serious wilderness-lover, fly-camping safaris and walking trails can be booked in the park’s remote southern district. This would certainly be my aim on a return visit.