Rubondo Island National Park

Island Chimps

Rubondo Island National Park is one of a kind. This remote jungle-clad island on Lake Victoria has been a haven for chimpanzees since the 1960s. The founder West African chimps were confiscated from zoos and circuses. Once released on the island they reverted to being totally wild. They reproduced and formed two separate communities. I first visited Rubondo in 2002. Although I never got to see any chimps, I loved hearing about this heartwarming story. When I returned 20 years later, I was determined to take part in the Chimpanzee Habituation Experience.

Our journey started with a boat trip to the other side of the island where the chimps were last spotted. Hippos disappeared under the water as our motorboat sped past, but the monstrous crocodiles that lined the shores didn’t even blink an eyelid. Although we were on a tight schedule to start tracking as early as possible, we did stop the boat to take a few pictures of an elephant splashing in the water.

Soon after we started tracking, we heard the distinctive pant-hooting of the chimps. They weren’t very far, but being only semi-habituated, they were keeping their distance. It took us more than three hours of crawling through dense undergrowth before I managed to get a clear view. A big male locked eyes with me and under his steady gaze, I managed to get a few images before he nonchalantly walked off again. It was a magical moment for me, but I hope this was a positive experience for him too and that my part in this helped in the ongoing habituation process.