Tanzania Travel Guide

its a wonderfull combination of nature wildlife hospiltality realxiation. Its paradise lost

The nearness of Gnoe

All right, wildlife does not evoke the same emotions Norah Jones does with her beautiful song but believe it or not, when you’re in the middle of a herd of Gnoes and other wildlife for the first time in your life, tears come to your eyes. It’s an emotional moment.
It’s January, rain and storm rule where we live in Holland. Tanzania is just 9 hours away with its beautiful nature, lovely climate and astounding wildlife.
Our trip in Tanzania knew three stages: relaxing days in and around Moshi, acknowledging the snowy peak of Kilimanjaro every morning, an exciting 11-day safari in Tarangiri National Park, Ngoro Ngoro Crater and Serengeti National Park. Our R. and R. was on Zanzibar, with our feet in the turquoise water of the Indian ocean.
Nothing was standard in those memorable days. Dutch born and raised Selma Kamm and her Tanzanian husband Ngomi Kamm of Moshi based Makasa Tanzanian Safaris excel in tailor-made trips. They had excellent and very practical suggestions on where to go and what to see and still made us feel ‘captain of our ship’.
On the spot, in Tanzania, Makasa service is impeccable and their guides and drivers are out to give you the time of your life.
We grew very much attached to our driver /guide Humphrey. He has an amazing knowledge of both flora and fauna and seems to have bionic eyes. My expensive binoculars are no match for his experience and eyesight when it comes to spotting wildlife. And yes, we saw the big five, and the small five and much more. We walked along thousands and thousands of Flamingo’s in Empakaai Crater, drove through paradise lost Ngoro Ngoro crater and were awed by the vastness of Serengeti. There is so much more to tell.
On safari we stayed in what they call tented lodges: an excellent invention. The cosiness of a tent, the size of a small bungalow, excellent double bed, chairs, and of course your own bathroom and shower. In the morning you wake up at the friendly voice just outside your tented lodge, asking if you want a hot or a cold shower.
Tourism is still relatively small in Tanzania, so when you visit a local family, its just you and the family, and together you prepare a local lunch –very tasty indeed- while they enjoy the way you potter around with their cooking utensils.
To top it all we spent 4 days in guest house Kilima Kidogo, in Paje, Zanzibar: white beaches, warm ocean, beds for an afternoon nap, lovely food and very friendly service.

Karibu indeed.

very full on

Dear Tribes team,

I have just got back from my Tanzanian trip which I must say certainly was more challenging than the last couple of trips you organised, as I battled to survive an attempt on my life (Uduzungwa), a series of bold robberies (Selous), and a potentially embarrassing international incident in Sadaani.

Impala camp in Selous was lovely in all respects. There was plenty of game in the immediate vicinity, and I had giraffe, bush babies and hippos around my tent most nights. The view in the evening from my wooden verandah as the sun set over the Rufiji river was absolutely wonderful. However, I suspect the camp at the absolute epicentre of game viewing is still Lake Manze and we had a longish drive to see most of the “serious” animals. Once we did so, we saw plenty of lions, a pack of 15 wild dogs and even a leopard which strolled right up to the vehicle which first spotted it (not mine, sadly- I only caught a few minutes as it disappeared into the deep bush). Hippo, monitor lizards and crocs on the river beneath my tent were commonplace and the birds were as I remembered them from my last two trips, spectacular. The robberies themselves were certainly very bold - vervet monkeys descended on my early morning tea and biscuits and left devastation in their wake; weaver birds ganged up to deprive me (successfully) of my breakfast cereal; and in the evening the bush babies distracted my attention and stole the delicious bread rolls from my plate.

Sable Mountain Lodge was an unusual place. It was very nice and comfortable, but there were relatively few birds or animals in the area, and it was surprisingly quiet in the jungle around the lodge. I had it pretty much to myself, which was a shame for the staff who were attentive and helpful. Abdullah, who has been at the Lodge since it was built, is absolutely charming.

The drive to Uduzungwa was very tough. It was fun to see the little villages and the women going about their routines (the men were sleeping, mainly), but it took about 9 hours and the roads for the most part, were ghastly. The last 30 k up to Hondo Hondo camp took over 2 hours and at times the road was indistinguishable from the bolder strewn streams which we crossed on the way. Fine for the more intrepid traveller, but I would say definitely not recommended for the casual tourist.

This is a shame because Uduzungwa and Hondo Hondo camp are certainly to be recommended for the sheer jaw dropping variety of unusual animals, birds, plants and insects. I saw five different primate species in the space of an hour around the camp within a few minutes of my arrival. It was also lovely to be welcomed by Belle and Ginger, two of the best turned out and well cared for donkeys in Africa, whose main duty (apart from welcoming guests) is to keep the grass down efficiently. Worth mentioning too, because I like to think I know a fair amount about European mycology, were the fungi, which were astonishing in variety and weird beauty, most of which I could not even begin to place in general families, much less identify as species.

The camp was the most basic I went to, and could possibly do with a quick Health and Hygiene visit, but was perfectly nice, and the staff absolutely lovely. I suspect that they obviously struggle with the heat and humidity (as did I), and mould stuck the pages of books together and pervaded the tents. I got severe diarrhoea and since another (non hiking) guest did too, I am not sure it was just the exertion of the hiking which was to blame. I also fell down a waterfall and ended up having to do a makeshift dressing with loo paper, which may have aided rather than stopped the bacterial infection which followed. Since the place is too remote to have a Duka La Dawa (chemist) anywhere close, it would have been advisable to have taken a much better First Aid kit with me.

Of course it was the trekking which nearly killed me. I had imagined that the distance and timings in the publicity were for the benefit of the “chubbier”guests (after all - who takes 4-5 hours to do a 6 km walk?), but they were not. I told my guides that they were trying to murder me on the longer Hidden Valleys walk, and they laughed, but my goodness I did find it hard. I had two guides and a ranger with a gun (I can perfectly understand why this was necessary, as we scared a leopard off its kill by one remote stream) and they were marvelous, solicitously carrying my haversack, then my camera then my hat, as I divested myself of everything remotely adding to my weight on the 8km relentless climb up. On the 8km climb down I was ready just to curl up in a ball and allow myself to be rolled down. Was it worth it? - goodness yes, but I am sure I would have enjoyed it more if I had not been hallucinating.

One quick word about prices, because I see a theme of complaints about the cost of the park fees and guides on Tripadvisor. I think the guides are $20 a day and I tipped each on top of that. They were great, although their knowledge of the flora and fauna could be better. They were out with me for a full day (9 hours) which works out at a little over $2 an hour before tip. That is not a high price for any Western tourist to pay, frankly. Likewise the Park fees are absolutely justified having regard to the sheer scale of the park management tasks which they cover. Of course locals should not have to pay those sort of fees and they do not, but visitors from Europe, America and Australia are incredibly privileged to be able to afford to travel the world to see such beautiful places, and should not feel resentful about the cost. London and Paris are no different – try visiting London Zoo with children, for a real wallet busting experience.

The drive from Uduzungwa to Sadaani took 9 hours and even the so called "good" non Tarmac road through to Sadaani was gruelling. Maybe it was just an age thing, and I am sure my bottom was much more resilient when I was younger.

Sadaani is quite a different experience, and although there was a lot of game to be seen, we had to work much harder to find the few individual zebra, giraffe and elephant and the birds. Lions are in the park, and the previous guests saw 10 of them. I saw none, but the driver told me that near Sadaani village they have become man-eaters, the last person served up as dinner, was only as far back as December last year. The warthogs are to be found in the middle of Sadaani village grazing happily with the goats and chickens. They are not stupid, and have worked out that it is perfectly safe to hang out in a non pork eating Muslim community, which will probably also keep an eye out for lions.

Tent-with-a-view is very nice and quirky, and the beach was by and large completely deserted. I did get to talk to the fishermen, who were friendly and laughed a lot. The food was good and baobab ice cream is really very nice. Hassam does a hilarious Del Boy Trotter impression - “lovely jubbley!” - how did that happen?

The drive back to Dar es Salaam was fine until we got within 10 km of the airport - that last bit took almost as much time as the rest of the 150?km journey. I would not willingly undergo that experience again on a full bladder.

Oh, and the international incident was when the male park guards tried to sell or even give away their very large female colleague to me. Olivie (for that was she) roared with laughter as my Swahili only just managed to keep pace with the most obvious innuendo and rudery. I am sure my wife and family would have been thrilled (not) if I had brought her home as my second wife. Mind you, there was plenty of her to go round.

All in all a super trip, but I now need a little lie down.

Tanzania is a very full on safari experience, but incredibly rewarding for anybody who is prepared to be a bit forgiving. The people are charming and have a great sense of humour, and thrilled if you tell them how lovely the country is . It needs more visitors - we in the West ask a lot from the Africans to care and manage the heritage of their wildlife, but we have to realize that it comes for them at a huge cost – in not many parts of the world do the major tourist attractions (think British Museum and Buckingham Palace) destroy your crops and eat you, so we have a duty to support them as much as we can.

General misinformation is also to blame for the current dearth of visitors – apparently the Ebola scare has decimated the numbers despite the fact that Tanzania is at less risk of an outbreak than Europe.

Now, about my next trip...

With very many thanks
Marcus

Tanzania has some of the best national parks in the world and numerous species of animals can be found quite readily in many of its parks.

Felt safe throughout our whole trip, everybody was really friendly, food was brilliant, and most places accept USD which made life pretty easy.

Amazing wildlife in North Tanzania

The weather in North Tanzania in August was perfect, not too hot, not too humid, with good cool breezes off and on. The variety of wildlife was very plentiful and we were able to see a little bit of everything, even though it was the tail end of the main migration for most of the wildebeast. The density of trees at Lake Maynara made it harder to see wildlife then at Tarangire, Ngorogoro, and Serengeti; but the vistas of these parks were all outstanding and unique. Visit Lake Natron only if you want to see a volcano, otherwise it has limited hiking and wildlife viewing. A day hike of Mount Kilimanjaro is a worthy experience as quite a variety of climate zones can be viewed in 1 day. Moshi and Arusha are both urban centers and are an interesting contrast to the quiet of most of the National Parks. While on safari we stayed in tented lodges that were practically equivalent to motels, except for the lack of potable water and their bucket shower system in Serengeti. In Tanzania we found that lunch is often served later then our usual noon hour that those of us in the US may be used too. We did not have much chance to try the local food, but hotel provided excellent Indian food. Transportation from Kilimanjaro airport to Tarangire, Lake Maynara, Ngorogoro were paved and smooth with minimal traffic issues. But the road between Ngorogoro and Serengeti was the worse bumpy gravel road on our trip. The roads around Lake Natron were unpaved dirt paths that often required detours through dry river beds that made it necessary for a good 4x4 all terrain vehicle, much like the US forestry roads are unimproved in the US. Our guide was very experienced and spoke good English, he was friendly, and knowledgeable about all the local wildlife and plants. Tanzania is a great country to visit for safari because almost everyone in the tourism industry speaks English, the country is very stable and safe, there is a wide variety of climates with various types of animals that can be visited all within a few days to a week of travel, and the people are very friendly.

The people are friendly & the guides are very knowledgeable. They are a little laid back but as we will be on a holiday, that fine! The Serengeti National Park/Lake Manyara NP & Ngorongoro Crater can be a route to see a lot of birds indeed. You will not be disappointed!!! If you are arriving via Arusha Airport, Mt Kilimanjaoro can be on the list too.

Reason why everyone should travel

Tanzania is one of the most amazing safari destinations. It offers variety of safari experience from Wildlife to Beach Holidays. An absolute reason to travel in deed.

The variety of the landscape and the extensive wildlife was amazing. We had time to enjoy all of them --- the smallest animals -- field mice and birds --- to the elephants and the predators... This IS your life dream. Don't miss it.

Tanzania is a safe and friendly country. It has the most wonderful parks that are well maintained. More tourists are finding their way to Tanzania due to the difficulties of traveling to Kenya. I have been to both and find Tanzania a far better destination. It simply doesn't disappoint. I plan on returning in a couple of years if not sooner.

It offers the chance to see many different animals, and also large numbers of animals. There is good infrastructure, including many good lodges and several good tour companies that supply guides.