Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of many Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guide to Kenya.
Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.
Anthony is the author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.
Tsavo East National Park is a superb place to watch wildlife. It’s a vast, semi-arid wilderness populated by elephants, sometimes in large herds and caked in the red Tsavo dust, and unique maneless lions. Tsavo’s wild and sunlit plains host other highlights, from cheetahs on the hunt to species such as gerenuk and Somali ostrich that you can see nowhere else this far south. And if you range beyond the main track through the park, it can feel like a real adventure.
Tsavo East is home to four of the Big Five (elephant, lion, leopard and buffalo). Although the park officially has rhino, the species hasn’t been seen here in years. The park is a stronghold for elephants, and you’ll commonly find them with a reddish appearance from the distinctive red soil of the area. Tsavo is also famous for its maneless lions.
If you stay close to the park’s main thoroughfare, you’ll experience barren plains, grasslands and semi-arid shrub. The plains either side of Aruba Dam can be good for cheetahs. A slight detour brings the Kanderi Swamp (popular with elephants) and Voi River (with lush riverine forests) into play. Nearby, Mudanda Rock, a towering rock formation, offers sweeping views from the summit. The wild, croc-filled Galana River runs through the north.
Activities
The only two activities permitted in Tsavo East National Park are wildlife viewing and birding, both of which you’ll most likely enjoy on a guided game drive. Self-guided game drives are possible in theory, although they’re not very common in Kenya.
Weather & Climate
Conditions stay hot and dry throughout the year at Tsavo East, with the exception of the park’s higher altitudes where it gets progressively cooler as you head up the hills. The Wet season (November to May) gets particularly hot, especially during the break between the rains at year’s end and during the later long rains. The Dry season (June to October) brings a little relief from the heat.
Tsavo East doesn’t always look its best in the Dry season (June to October), when the sky can be hazy from the dust, but this is the best time to spot animals. The dry, hot months of January and February are also good. The grass is much shorter than in the Wet season (November to May), so the wildlife is less easily concealed behind the vegetation. And, of course, getting wet is not an issue.
Ariadne is a renowned African wildlife photographer whose work is featured in many well-known guidebooks and magazines.
Tsavo East: one of Africa’s wildest parks
4/5
Tsavo East is one of Africa’s great wilderness destinations. With very limited accommodation in a huge area, you almost feel like you’ve got the place to yourself. Everything is here which always gives me a sense of anticipation: you...
Pretty sparse with animals the evening and morning we went. It wouldn't have been worth it if it weren't for staying at the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary.