Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of many Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guide to Kenya.
Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.
Anthony is the author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.
Tsavo West National Park divides opinion among travelers: some love its superb scenery and sometimes-fantastic wildlife, others find it a little frustrating when it comes to seeing animals. They’re both right: the park is home to the Big Five, but wildlife viewing can be a bit slow. Highlights include recent lava flows and lush Mzima Springs with its close-up views of hippos.
Tsavo West is a real wilderness destination. All of the Big Five are present, and good lion, leopard and elephant sightings are possible. Elephant herds can be found gathered at the waterholes. However, wildlife densities are lower than in some of the more popular parks in Kenya. There is a good variety of animals though with many dry-country specials, including the shy lesser kudu and the rare fringe-eared oryx.
Tsavo West has a rugged, arid beauty, with varied landscapes of dense woodlands, rocky outcrops, and volcanic hills and lava flows. The jagged Ngulia Hills run like a spine through the park. Underpinning everything here is the park’s black volcanic soil and Tsavo’s famous red dust. A small number of rivers (most seasonal, some year-round) meander through the park, but Mzima Springs is like a verdant oasis.
Activities
Like most Kenyan parks, the main activities in Tsavo West are guided game drives where you can look for wildlife and enjoy bird watching. Apart from within the grounds of your accommodation, the only place where you’re allowed outside your vehicle is at Mzima Springs, where there is a short walking track.
Weather & Climate
Like its sister park to the east, Tsavo West is a hot and dry place, even if temperatures drop significantly at night. The best place to escape the heat is the higher altitudes of the park, where it cools by 6.5°C/3.5°F for every 1,000m/1,000ft you climb. The Dry season (June to October) is characterized by bright, sunny days, and the Wet season (November to May) by afternoon showers.
If you prefer your vegetation green instead of brown, and want a clear view of Kilimanjaro, then the Wet season (November to May) is when you’ll want to visit. Migratory birds also offer a great spectacle at this time. But for wildlife viewing in general, you should really go in the drier months (June to October and January to February), when a lack of water sees animals gather at local rivers and waterholes.
Anthony is a photographer and writer for travel magazines and Lonely Planet, including the guides to Kenya and Botswana & Namibia.
Tsavo West – Kenya’s Southern Wilderness
5/5
The vast and uninhabited plains of Tsavo West is high on my list of favourite Kenyan safari destinations. Wildlife densities are much lower here than the Masai Mara or even Tsavo’s other half away to the east. But the shaggy maned lions...