​Overview – Tsavo West NP

Anthony Ham
Expert
By Anthony Ham

Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of many Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guide to Kenya.

Anthony is a renowned Africa expert and author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.

Anthony is the author of the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya.

Tsavo West National Park divides opinion among travelers. Some love its superb scenery and sometimes-fantastic wildlife, others find it a little frustrating when it comes to seeing animals. They’re both right: the park is home to the Big Five, but wildlife viewing can be a bit slow. Highlights include recent lava flows and lush Mzima Springs with its close-up views of hippos.

Best Time To Go June to October and January to February (Best for general wildlife viewing; little rainfall)
High Season December to March and July to October (Busy)
Size 7,065km² / 2,728mi²
Altitude 419-1,677m / 1,375-5,502ft

Pros & Cons

  • Great wilderness destination
  • Wide variety of animals, including all the Big Five
  • Excellent birding with some dry-country specials
  • A chance of seeing the rare black rhino in Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary
  • Short walking trail, resident hippos and underwater hide at Mzima Springs
  • Wildlife densities are rather low
  • Seeing wildlife can be unpredictable due to dense vegetation

Tsavo West NP Safari Reviews

  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding
  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding

Wildlife

Tsavo West is a real wilderness destination. All of the Big Five are present in the park. Sightings of lion, leopard, buffalo and elephant are possible in the main area, and there is a good chance of seeing black rhino in Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary. Elephant herds can be found gathered at the waterholes. However, wildlife densities are lower than in some of Kenya’s more popular parks. There is a good variety of animals though, including many dry-country specials such as the shy lesser kudu and the rare fringe-eared oryx.

Scenery

Tsavo West has a rugged, arid beauty with varied landscapes that include dense woodlands, rocky outcrops, volcanic hills, the Shetani lava flows and Chaimu Crater. The jagged Ngulia Hills run like a spine through the park. Underpinning everything is black volcanic soil and Tsavo’s famous red dust. A small number of rivers (most seasonal, some year-round) meander through the park, but Mzima Springs is like a verdant oasis. Lake Jipe, south of the Taveta Road, has a very different feel to the rest of the park.

Activities

Like most Kenyan parks, the main activities in Tsavo West are guided game drives, where you can look for wildlife and enjoy bird watching. Apart from within the grounds of your accommodations, the only places where you’re allowed outside your vehicle are Mzima Springs (where there is a short, pretty walking track through the fever tree forest) and Chaimu Crater.

Weather & Climate

Like its sister park to the east, Tsavo West is a hot and dry place, even if temperatures drop significantly at night. The best place to escape the heat is the higher altitudes of the park, where it cools by 6.5°C/3.5°F for every 1,000m/1,000ft you climb. The Dry season (June to October) is characterized by bright, sunny days, and the Wet season (November to May) by afternoon showers.

Best Time To Visit

If you prefer lush green vegetation and want a clear view of Mt Kilimanjaro, you should visit in the Wet season (November to May). Migratory birds also offer a great spectacle at this time. But for wildlife viewing in general, you should visit in the drier months (June to October and January to February), when a lack of water sees animals gather at local rivers and waterholes.

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Tsavo West NP Safari Reviews

  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding
  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding
Most Helpful Expert Review
Expert
Anthony Ham  –  
Australia AU

Anthony is a photographer and writer for travel magazines and Lonely Planet, including the guides to Kenya and Botswana & Namibia.

Tsavo West – Kenya’s Southern Wilderness
5/5

The vast and uninhabited plains of Tsavo West is high on my list of favourite Kenyan safari destinations. Wildlife densities are much lower here than the Masai Mara or even Tsavo’s other half away to the east. But the shaggy maned lions...

Full Review

Latest User Review
Cindy Eyler  –  
United States US
Reviewed: Dec 2, 2024
4/5

We had a great night drive experience with seeing lions take down their prey and eat it alive until it finally died, but in general there wasn't a huge amount of wildlife to see at this place. They need to add more roads closer to water...

Full Review