Waterberg Biosphere Reserve

South Africa’s Greatest Secret

Waterberg seems to have retained an elusive wilderness appeal that has, inexplicably, remained a secret in the outside world. While some might feel that aspects of human settlement and pioneering history detract from the bush vibe, it undeniably adds another layer of fascination to this already intriguing mountain stronghold. There is fascinating history in the Waterberg and for the best insight check out the wonderful Waterberg Living Museum (established by conservation legend Clive Walker and his son Anton).

The UNESCO-protected Waterberg Biosphere Reserve encompasses incredibly diverse habitats with an estimated 5,500 different species of plants, some of South Africa’s most important San rock art and enchanting savannah, bushveld and mountain landscapes.

Welgevonden Game Reserve, Waterberg’s biggest Big Five reserve at 360km², boasts one of the country’s strongest – and most heavily protected – populations of rhino and offers such rare sightings as brown hyena and pangolin.

It had been years since I’d spent much time on horseback but an opportunity to ride among roan, sable, giraffe and even white rhino is not to be missed. The Ant Collection boasts a free-ranging herd of around 90 horses on their private reserve and is able to offer reliable bush-savvy steeds for the slowest plodders or the wildest horseback hoodlums.

Ant Baber’s family began farming here in 1886 and with three of the Big Five (elephant and lion are missing), the family farm has been rewilded to become one of South Africa’s most thrilling horse-riding, mountain-biking, walking and bush-running venues. There’s a large buffalo herd here but under normal circumstances they are carefully avoided unless in game-driving vehicles and the rhino have been habituated to the horses. A highlight of the Ant Collection – along with the conversation and hospitality of the vivacious Tessa Baber – is certainly the chance to drink sundowners in the company of habituated white rhino.